Camber

(Difference between revisions)

Revision as of 01:38, 27 January 2012

The stock 1200 suspension is non-adjustable for Camber. If the camber is out-of-specification, the factory recommends replacing parts. A good suspension man can sometimes bend the strut housing to correct for bad camber. But for upgrading to modern camber settings, there is no provision in the stock parts.

-VE Camber (Negative camber)

1.5 degrees negative camber can work well for racing or spirited driving. Large amounts of -VE are mainly for looks. For performance you want the tires parallel to the pavement.

-VE can be achieved in various ways:

• Slot the strut-top mounting points per the Nissan Competition suspension manual

  

• Redrill or slot the crossmember mounting points

  

• install adjustable strut tops

  

• use longer bottom arm (e.g. B310 suspension arm). Or lengthen the arm, like this:

  

• Another way to get a longer arm is to use a longer Ball Joint. The A10 (Violet/Stanza/Auster/510) and some B310 models use a longer ball joint which fixes the bottom of the strut further outboard (more neg. camber). 1200 Truck 1976-up has the steering arms to match the original 1200 struts to the newer ball joint. Use 1976-up LCA (B210, B310 or 1200 ute/truck) which the longer ball joint will bolt to.

See discussion Negative Camber

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adjustable strut tops ... only helps to get a little bit more camber and/or castor. To get [a large amount of] camber, you need to run smaller diameter springs, as well as the adjustable strut tops. With the standard springs, the available adjustment will be restricted inside the strut tower by the large original spring diameter.

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Small coilover type springs and adjustable strut tops are good for about 4.5 degree negative camber.