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| = Removal and Installation = | = Removal and Installation = | ||
| * No sealant. | * No sealant. | ||
| - | * Reuse the old rubber, it will work better. If you must use the new rubber, put it in a metal garbage pail with a light bulb to get the rubber warm and soft. | + | * Reuse the old rubber, it will work better. If you must use a new rubber, put it in enclosed space with a light bulb to get the rubber warm and soft, for example in a metal garbage pail used as a heater box |
| * First, fit rubber to glass | * First, fit rubber to glass | ||
| * fit a thin cord into the rubber and tape the ends to the inside of the glass | * fit a thin cord into the rubber and tape the ends to the inside of the glass | ||
| * place glass into body opening | * place glass into body opening | ||
| * gently get the rubber channel all along the bottom inserted into the sheet metal lip | * gently get the rubber channel all along the bottom inserted into the sheet metal lip | ||
| - | * Pull the cord to move the lip back, GENTLY keeping the glass in place | + | * Pull the cord to move the lip back, GENTLY keeping the glass in place. Be extra careful around the corners. Do not apply any pressure to the glass; just hold it in place |
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| The Datsun 1200 [[Factory Service Manual]] says, AFTER installing the glass: | The Datsun 1200 [[Factory Service Manual]] says, AFTER installing the glass: | ||
| - | <blockquote>Using a pressure type applicator, seal inner and outer lips of rubber channel to glass with an approved weatherstrip adhesive... Seal completely around rubber channel.</blockquote>Question: why not put the sealant in the rubber channel before installation? Because people have ended up with leaks when putting sealant into the rubber before fitting the glass. | + | <blockquote>Using a pressure type applicator, seal inner and outer lips of rubber channel to glass with an approved weatherstrip adhesive... Seal completely around rubber channel.</blockquote>Do this on the exterior, both between glass and rubber, and between rubber and metal. Try not to get the sealer on the visible portion of the glass (wipe any excess away). |
| - | Use a dedicated automotive glass adhesive like "3M Auto Glass Urethane Adhesive". The FSM says use a caulking gun, so that means to force it in between the rubber and glass with more pressure than simply squeezing a tube of it and trying to get it in place. | + | Question: why not put the sealant in the rubber channel before installation? Because people have ended up with leaks when putting sealant into the rubber before fitting the glass. |
| + | |||
| + | Use a dedicated automotive glass adhesive like "3M Auto Glass Urethane Adhesive". The FSM says use a caulking gun, so that means to force it in between the rubber and glass with more pressure than simply squeezing a tube of it and hoping it gets deep into the correct area. | ||
| = Part Numbers = | = Part Numbers = | ||
Revision as of 08:41, 24 March 2015
The front window is a known as a windshield or windscreen.
Contents |
Interchange
- Sedan/Truck/Van windshields differ from Coupe windshield
- Sedan & Van are the same by part number (per Nissan catalog)
- Coupe differs from all others (20.5 inches ~52.1 cm top to bottom)
- Truck reportedly same as sedan (53cm top to bottom)
Trix fitted a B140 windscreen to his 1200 coupe, he used filler to make up the gaps:
Jeff fitted sedan glass to his ute after sanding the corners down:
And spacing the glass to fill the gap
Works as a temporary
Removal and Installation
- No sealant.
- Reuse the old rubber, it will work better. If you must use a new rubber, put it in enclosed space with a light bulb to get the rubber warm and soft, for example in a metal garbage pail used as a heater box
- First, fit rubber to glass
- fit a thin cord into the rubber and tape the ends to the inside of the glass
- place glass into body opening
- gently get the rubber channel all along the bottom inserted into the sheet metal lip
- Pull the cord to move the lip back, GENTLY keeping the glass in place. Be extra careful around the corners. Do not apply any pressure to the glass; just hold it in place
Use a strong thin nylon rope. It will work the smoothest around the edges. And a spray bottle with some soapy water. The nylon rope is fitted to the rubber grove, bring the two tail ends of the rope to finish at the bottom of the windscreen and definitely heat up the rubber. I used a blow dryer when the rubber was fitted to the windscreen. It will be tight but i can only recommend if its too tight pull it off and start again. With one person inside the cabin slowly pulling the nylon rope and the other person supporting from the outside. They are to follow you around as you pull the rope pushing down on the edge. If you feel to much friction on the rubber spray some water and keep going. No broken windscreens if you take your time.
Sealant
I've always put them in with no sealer and didn't have leaks. If re-using the old rubber, make sure the channel is cleaned out and the rubber is warmed (soft) first. If using new rubber, do the same.
However the Factory Service Manual instructs to use adhesive, which I believe is to mitigate any possibility of a comeback (bringing the car back to the dealer if it should happen to leak). In otherwords, a professionally applied adhesive is low-risk.
The Datsun 1200 Factory Service Manual says, AFTER installing the glass:
Using a pressure type applicator, seal inner and outer lips of rubber channel to glass with an approved weatherstrip adhesive... Seal completely around rubber channel.Do this on the exterior, both between glass and rubber, and between rubber and metal. Try not to get the sealer on the visible portion of the glass (wipe any excess away).
Question: why not put the sealant in the rubber channel before installation? Because people have ended up with leaks when putting sealant into the rubber before fitting the glass.
Use a dedicated automotive glass adhesive like "3M Auto Glass Urethane Adhesive". The FSM says use a caulking gun, so that means to force it in between the rubber and glass with more pressure than simply squeezing a tube of it and hoping it gets deep into the correct area.
Part Numbers
SEDAN
- 72613-H1902, 72613-H1901 GLASS-WINDSHIELD PL (clear) T=6.6 2-dr SEDAN USA
- 72613-H1903, 72613-H1900 GLASS-WINDSHIELD PLT (tinted) T=6.6 OP 2-dr SEDAN USA
- 72613-H1003 GLASS-windshield from '70 Aug S-Std JDM replaces 72613-H1002
- 72613-H1103 GLASS-windshield from '70 Aug S-DX, S-GL, 4GX JDM replaces 72613-H1102
- 76210-H1001 WEATHERSTRIP-windshield from '70 Aug Sedan, Van replaces 76210-H1000
COUPE
- 72613-H1910,72613-H1913 GLASS-WINDSHIELD (tinted) T=6.6 Coupe USA
- 72613-H1802 GLASS-windshield Coupe from '70 Aug JDM replaces 72613-H1801
- 76210-H1801 WEATHERSTRIP-windshield from '70 Aug Coupe replaces 76210-H1800
TRUCK
- 72613-H1002 GLASS-windshield, front ALL (exc. B-T,GB-T) -7509
- 72613-H1102 GLASS-windshield, front B-T,GB-T -7509
- 72613-H1102 GLASS-WINDSHIELD all 7510-8611
- 72613-G1900 GLASS-WINDSHIELD all 8611-
- 72610-G1000 WEATHERSTRIP-WINDSHIELD all
VAN
- 72613-H1003 GLASS-windshield, front from '70 Aug V-Std replaces 72613-H1002 VS, VP
- 72613-H1103 GLASS-windshield, front from '70 Aug V-Dx, V-P replaces 72613-H1102
- 76210-H1001 WEATHERSTRIP-windshield Sedan, Van
2-dr Sedan & Pickup
- 80238-H1001 BRACKET-PIVOT TOP LOW $10.50 USD
- 80234-H1000 WASHER-BRACKET PIVOT $5.83 USD
- 80284-H1000 WASHER-RUBBER A $0.62 USD
- 80285-H1000 WASHER-RUBBER B $0.62 USD
- 08330-41020 SCREW-MACHINE M4 $0.80 USD
- 80292-73000 RIVET-SPECIAL [CLIP-TUBULAR] NLA
Rubber Seals
- 72610-H1001,72610-H1000 WEATHERSTRIP-WINDSHIELD 2-dr SEDAN $95.37 USD
- 72610-H1800,72610-H1801 WEATHERSTRIP-WINDSHIELD Coupe $107 USD
Coupe Windshield Weatherstrip
Moulding Trim Sedan & Van
S-DX, S-GL, 4-GX, Van-Dx
Early style: single upper piece
- 72810-H1100 SET-MOULDING, windshield
- 72812-H1100 MOULDING-windshield, upper
- 72814-H1100 MOULDING-windshield, side (R.H.)
- 72815-H1100 MOULDING-windshield, side (L.H.)
- 72813-H1100 MOULDING-windshield, lower
From '70 June: tree-piece upper
The SET replaces the earlier SET, but not vice-versa
- 72810-H1101 SET-MOULDING, windshield S-DX, S-GL, 4-GX, V-DX, V-P
- 72811-H1101 MOULDING-windshield, upper (R.H.)
- 72812-H1101 MOULDING-windshield, upper (L.H.)
- 72814-13600 CLIP-moulding
- 72814-H1101 MOULDING-windshield, side (R.H.)
- 72815-H1101 MOULDING-windshield, side (L.H.)
- 72813-H1100 MOULDING-windshield, lower
Moulding Trim Coupe
Early style: single upper piece
- 72810-H1800 SET-MOULDING, windshield
- 72812-H1800 MOULDING-windshield, upper
- 72814-H1800 MOULDING-windshield, side (R.H.)
- 72815-H1800 MOULDING-windshield, side (L.H.)
- 72813-H1800 MOULDING-windshield, lower
From '70 June: tree-piece upper
The SET replaces the earlier SET, but not vice-versa
- 72810-H1801 SET-MOULDING, windshield S-DX, S-GL, 4-GX
- 72811-H1801 MOULDING-windshield, upper (R.H.)
- 72812-H1801 MOULDING-windshield, upper (L.H.)
- 72814-13600 CLIP-moulding
- 72814-H1801 MOULDING-windshield, side (R.H.)
- 72815-H1801 MOULDING-windshield, side (L.H.)
- 72813-H1800 MOULDING-windshield, lower
Moulding Trim Truck
74-up Truck uses 8-piece molding set. Has L-shaped pieces in the corners.
- 72810-G1000 MOULDING SET-WINDSHIELD 7510- ALL
- 72810-G1000 MOULDING SET-windshield-7509 DX
- 72812-G1000 MOULDING-windshield, upper
- 72813-G1000 MOULDING-windshield, lower
- 72814-G1000 MOULDING-windshield, side (R.H.)
- 72815-G1000 MOULDING-windshield, side (L.H.)
- 72816-G1000 CORNER-windshield, upper (R.H.)
- 72817-G1000 CORNER-windshield, upper (L.H.)
- 72818-G1000 CORNER-windshield, lower (R.H.)
- 72819-G1000 CORNER-windshield, lower (L.H.)
