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Datsun 1200 uses front Mcpherson strut Front Suspension. A McPherson strut is a combination shock absorber integrated with spring unit -- it's a structural piece, holding the car up and locating the suspension. This is as opposed to shock absorbers, which if removed won't affect ride height or cause the axles to fall off. Not to say you should remove the rear shocks, but they only control bounding.
The original 1200 strut is a rebuildable oil filled tube with shock valving and seals. Struts "inserts" are an alternative - you can buy a sealed shock absorber-like cartridge that goes into the strut housing.
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Gas Charged?
I recommend getting standard shocks/struts, *not* gas-charged. Both lowpressure gas and high pressure gas ones are too stiff. The 1200 is so light it will make it ride even rougher, and rear gas struts cause it to bounce on bumpy pavement. On the other hand, if you have race car however, you may like gas-charged shocks.
I've always wanted to try adjustable Konis, they are available for the 1200 front and rear but difficult to find.
So the trick is finding standard shocks & struts. Most companies (Monroe, etc) only sell generic ones that fit the 1200 and the 25% heavier B210.
If you are thinking of selling, then any shock and strut is better than worn out ones...I've been there, done that with both wornout ones and gas charged.
For the front, if you can find the rebuild kit, that's what I recommend.
Rebuilding Strut
For the front, if you can find the rebuild kit, just replace the seals etc. and put in new fluid. The alternative is a "strut insert" cartridge. Yes, the stock struts are fully rebuildable. It is relatively inexpensive. Your local Nissan dealer may still be able to get the rebuild kit. There are two kinds, one for Tokico struts and the other for Atsugi struts.
To "rebuild" the strut, you need *new* parts. The the rebuild kit will have full instructions. You need to carefully measure the correct amount of the appropriate strut fluid. It will seem to soft or too hard if the wrong amount is put in.
To "rebuild" the strut, you need *new* parts. The the rebuild kit will have full instructions. You need to carefully measure the correct amount of the appropriate strut fluid. It will seem to soft or too hard if the wrong amount is put in.
I wouldn't attempt this without the full instructions. If you have the factory manual, it is fairly easy to do. The Clymer manual doesn't explain how to rebuilt the strut.
Here are the specs for Datsun 1200 (B110) struts:
- AMPCO/ATSUGI struts: 280cc of Nisseki Shock Absorber Oil A-2
- TOKICO struts: 265cc of Tokico Light Oil No. 1
Measure it out carefully ...
- Gland nut torque: 57-79.5 lb-ft
To bleed the shock, after the oil is put in and every assembled, pull the rod out fully with the shock vertical and the axle at the bottom. Then turn the shock upside down and push the rod fully in. Repeat this several times until the resistance on the rod feels consistant. Make several quick and short push pulls, the stiffness appears. If you make long continuous pulls or pushes on the shock, there is little resistance.
Strut Tops
The B110 strut tops are different from B210 & B310 tops. They latter have a higher profile and raise the car up, so use the B110 tops. If there is nothing poking up through the hole in the strut tower,then it's "wrong" for a 1200.
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B310 tops
TIP: You can use rubber covers from an early 90's Mazda 323 w/ electric adjustable suspension. Thse covers sits perfectly over a 1200 strut tower, even with large 1200 strut tops or camber-adjustable strut tops.
Strut Insert Cartridges
Quote:
I think Strut inserts are a bad idea. I have put strut inserts into two 1200s and neither rode as well afterwards. Nothing can beat the ride of the original struts. Plus the originaldampening can be modified so easily by changing the hydraulic fluid and with inserts, you would have to change the inserts to do that. The strut inserts wear out too fast also. My original 1200, Mareo Speedwagon I, had 17 years and over 300,000 miles on the original struts. They were never rebuilt either and rode excellent. At close to 200,000 miles, I learned the easy way to change the fluid in the struts. Unless your struts are totally worn out, rebuild them if they can be rebuilt and you will be much happier, I was anyway.
reference
Quote:
The 1200s used the smaller diameter strut tube from the rest of the Datsun model range. From memory its around 45mm compared to the more common 50mm dia. In the past I have used Toyota Starlet (RWD) inserts and for racing VW Golf Mark 1 Koni gas adjustables. Both inserts are shorter and will need a [simple] spacer made to make up the difference in length in the bottom of the tube.
Part Numbers
strut inserts -- information on inserts and adapting Koni inserts for VW Jetta so that they fit a 1200.
Correct Oil to Use
- Atsugi strut: Nisseki Shock Absorber Oil A-2
- Tokico: Tokico Light Oil No. 1 D-S
A liter will service two struts.
The strut oil is lighter than motor oil.
Can I use motorcycle fork oil in the struts? Perhaps. Racers use various viscosities of oil to fine-tune their motorcycle shocks. And some Datsun fans have used it. B110SSS recommends: "Go down to your local motorbike shop and get some mx fork oil - works very well".
DaveB recommends trying Dexron III ATF (as used in Tercel front struts). Motorcycle fork oil would be good too but is more expensive. Stay away from engine oil, it doesn't have the anti foaming additives of ATF or fork oils.
Part Numbers
Here are the Nissan part numbers ... please let us know if they are available or NLA in your country (click Edit at the top of this page):
USA - List Price in US Dollar:
- 56105-H5025 KIT-ABSORBER SHOCK FRONT (ATSUGI) $64.05
- 56105-H5025 KIT-ABSORBER SHOCK FRONT (TOKICO) $64.05
- 54308-H1025 KIT-PACKING GLAND(ATUGI) $41.17
- 54308-H1026 KIT-PACKING GLAND(TOKICO)