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The B310 strut swap into a B110 is popular because it is a true bolt-in swap -- no cutting or machining needed. You get better brakes, and better availability of strut inserts. The B310 is model years 1979-1982 (aka Sunny, 140Y/150Y, or Datsun 210 not to be confused with B210). We are talking about B310s with 13" wheels, not those with 12" wheels which have small brakes. All USA models have the large brakes, and all Canada models except A12A Canada models. In Australia, any A14 or A15 powered B310 should have the good parts.
For more information on struts swaps, including other choices, see main article: Strut swaps.
This is very similar to the A10 Strut Swap, main differences:
- No machining needed for B310 strut. With A10, you need to cut the strut shorter. Otherwise there will only be 2" of suspension travel
- A10 has bigger, better brakes (some versions of A10, at least) with 240mm (9.5") rotors.
B310s have a larger brake than B110, The B310s are the same size as the largest B210 brakes:
B310 on left, B110 on right
This is the easiest strut upgrade, but are still light in performance compared to modern cars. discussion:
Rotor Sizes
| Dia. (mm) | Part Number | Source |
| 212.5 | 40206-H1006 | B110, B210 with A12 1974, 1975 |
| 220 (AN18) | 40206-H7500 | B210 A12 1976-1978,B310 with 12" wheels |
| 232 | 40206-A1155 | B210 A13, PB110?, PB210 early? |
| 245 (AN20) | 40206-U6700 | B210 A14, B310 A14/A15, PB210 late? |
The B310 struts are larger diameter (51 mm versus 45mm) B110 strut housing is 45 mm diameter. The larger B210/B310 unit is 51 mm. There are more strut inserts (shock absorbers) available for the larger type.
Counterpoint: For a mild street car, large strut & brake upgrades are probably overkill, while the track increase may mean that flares & guard/fender modifications are required. The increase in unsprung mass helps to kill the ride quality, neither of which is good.
The B310 uses smaller-diameter springs (100mm versus 110mm).
Strut Comparo
Strut Inserts
The damping force of the B310 strut is very similar to the B110 strut, so no worries there
Features:
- will clear 13" wheels
- significant increase of track width
- Virtually same spring rates as B110
Can't you just put the big brakes on the B110 B310 strut? No one knows. Maybe the B310 rotor and caliper will bolt right into a 1200.
The B310 strut tubes are longer than the B110's strut tube, but only by 10 mm. In overall length they are the same as the B110 from the ball joint to the top of the strut hat.
See who_your_datty_1200's Strut Swap Photos: My winter project...
Contents |
Coil Springs & Strut Top
The strut tops are different: The B210 & B310 tops have a higher profile and raise the car up, so use the B110 tops with the B310 struts. If there is nothing poking up through the hole in the strut tower,then it's a B310 top
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- B310 strut tops use larger diameter bolts, so drill out the strut-tower bolt holes slightly to match
Now the spring of the B310 strut is too long for the B110. So cut the spring to the appropriate length (same as the B110 spring). Or maybe you can use the B110 spring?
- Use the B110 coil spring (110 mm diameter), spring cup and strut top hat, and fit it to the B310 strut. If you lower the car more than an inch or two you will need to flair the fenders.
Optional: Cut strut tube for lowering purposes:
If you don't plan on lowering the car, there is no need to cut the tube shorter.
Optional, for racing or lowering
- Remove the spring perch and use a weld-on Coilover Springs kit. You can lower the car more by getting the tires in closer to these small-diameter coils (using different offset wheels)
- Remember that that the stock 1200 spring rate is 90 lb/in
Balljoints and Lower Suspension
The spacing where the strut bolts to the steering arm is different from B110 spacing. So, use the B310 lower parts:
- steering arm (knuckle)
- LCA (same length as B110?)
A10: 1978-1982 "Datsun 510" aka "Stanza"
Now the A10 uses the same strut-to-knuckle spacing, so you can use these parts:
- A10 steering arm (knuckle). This is preferred over B310 because it doesn't push the tire outside
B310 Ball-joint Offset
About 15-18mm difference.
The Ball-joint bolts on top of the Lower Control Arm. The steering arm (steering knuckle) fits on top of the ball joint via the taper post.
- Use the longer B310 ball-joint to gain negative camber. The downside is it pushes the tire to the outside, and wider tires will foul on the outer fenders.
The A10 ball joint uses a larger diameter taper. It wouldn't fit into the B110 steering arm. But you can use B310 control arms and ball joints with the A10 strut.
195-width tires are the widest that will fit with the B310 setup.
All Datsun/Nissan struts -- except B110 and B210 -- up to and including R31 Skyline and 280ZX will bolt to an A10 or B310 steering arm, the B310 lower control arm is same length as a 1200 one but will accept a larger steering arm and ball joint. So you can use the B310 Lower control arm with other struts to keep the same 1200 width, or if you want wider track use the A10 arm. Then instead of having to modify B210 castor rods like every one does use the B310 rods.
The A10 ball joints and the B310 ones are the same bolt-in wise. Use A10 or B310 outer tie rods and A10 sway bar links because these are thicker.
Even Bigger Brake Possibilities
- Volvo 4 piston calipers from a 240DL wagon bolt to the B310 strut fine, but have different style flare fittings. Have the B310 outer hubs turned down to 140mm diameter. Use (possibly) Subaru leone vented discs
- Land Cruiser 4-pot calipers bolt straight on to B310 struts. But which rotors to use?
- there are two types of these calipers they are
- from late 80's early 90's HILUX, or FOUR RUNNER and the early ones have a small solid disc, these are the ones to use with the z struts.
- The later model ones have vented disc and these are to be used with A10/B310 and other struts and utilize some sort of vented disc, i think people on this site have done this with verada discs or 300zx
- GM Commodore caliper
- Nissan S13 rotor & caliper
- MK63 4-pot calipers
Use B210 sway bar. It is 20mm compared to the 1200s 17mm, and wider to match the extra width from the B310 or A10 lower control arms.
These parts allow the use of any B310/A10/510/610/810/280ZX etc. struts to be fitted.
Tension Rods
If using the B310 lower control arm, use the B310 caster rod.
If using the A10 lca, the B110 and B210 Caster rods (aka tc, radius, tension rods) can be used. The length is correct, but bolt spacing needs to be wider for the A10 balljoint and tapped to M10. This means drilling one new hole in the tension rod.
For more details, see Caster Rods.
Instructions
Parts Needed
Grab the whole front strut/brake assembly as well as the brake hoses and the brake bias controller unless you plan on using an adjustable unit. Also grab the brake master cylinder.
Make sure to get the good struts, the ones with 245mm rotors. Two smaller sizes exist but are not worth swapping as they won't gain you much over the B110 parts.
Exception: If you wish to retain 12" brakes, you could use the 220mm Strut & Brakes setup from an A12 powered B310 (Or the A12A Canada version).
Details
Use at your own risk. There is no guarantee these steps are complete.
- Remove strut
- swap the springs and strut top from the B110 onto the B310 strut
- Put B310 strut on
Optional:
- Fit quick-ratio B310 steering knuckle from Pitroad.
