The 280ZX strut swap into a B110 is popular in America. What you gain is large, vented rotors that won't overheat while racing. The 280ZX is model years 1979-1982 (Nissan chassis code S130, not to be confused with the earlier 280Z).
For more overview, see main article: Strut swaps.
You'll be happy with the 280ZX brakes im sure, if they stop a heavy turbo 2.8L 6cyl they will stop the 1200!
- 9.92" (252 mm) diameter vented rotors
- solid, single-piston caliper
- shorter strut height
- will clear certain 13" wheels. Note that Z-car (240Z, 260Z, 280Z) struts/brakes require 14" wheels, as will 300ZX struts.
- CAUTION: With some 13" wheels the 280ZX calipers won't fit
- decrease in track allows wider wheels/tires
- Wheels tuck in better than with B310 struts (requiring less offset wheels)
- have a very short stroke that a lowered car needs to handle properly *: (which is not important if you don't plan on lowering the 1200)
Can't you just put the big brakes on the B110 or B310 strut? Converted said: "need to swap the struts as the B310 stub axles are too short for a brake swap."
Why not 240Z? Feral says: "240Z Struts for 1200 sedan...240/260Z struts stub angles are wrong for this conversion. You will have heaps of positive camber...[you need the] stock 7 degree angle used by most Datto struts". Nzdatman added: "Z struts won't bolt to [B310] arms. ZX strut will. Z struts brakes are way too big for 13s but 14s fit."
Kingpin Inclination Axis B110: 7°55' (7°45' for Van) S30: 11° 14' to 12° 44'
280ZX hubs and struts bring the wheel in closer to the strut than the B310 setup, so wheel spacers are not usually needed.
Whitesedan is looking into Toyota Hilux 4-piston calipers for this swap. Hilux 4-piston calipers have greater clamping force than the ZX calipers, but are considerably heavier cast iron units. Most say stick with the ZX calipers or upgrade to the MK63 FIA brakes.
B110 strut housing is 45 mm diameter. 280ZX is 2.0" (50.8 mm), same as B310 and late B210 and most other Datsuns.
Parts & Specifications
The hubs are same all years 280ZX.
40202-P6526 HUB ASSY-ROAD WHEEL,FRONT RH * includes bearings and inner seal, but not cap or nut
40232-A0101 SEAL-GREASE,FRONT HUB Timkin 1188S National 1188 SKF 18864 * also used by S110 * Shaft Size=1.89", Housing Bore=2.441, Outer Diameter=2.451,Width=0.236in
40210-A0100 BEARING ASSY-FRONT WHEEL [inner] * also used by S110, S12, 910, Z31 * SKD BR6 * Cup length=.4650"; Width=.625"; Standout=.1600"; * Outside diameter=2.3280"; Inside diameter=1.2500"; * Cup radius=.0500"; Cone length=.6600IN 40222-22001 BOLT-HUB (8) * also used by D21/D21U, R50, WD21/WD22, 720, 910, S12, Z31 40215-A0100 BEARING ASSY-FRONT WHEEL [outer] * also used by 910,B11,M10,N10,N12,S110,S12,T11,T12,U11,Z31 * SKF BR2 * Cup radius=.0500"; Width=.610"; Standout=.1350"; Outside diameter=1.7810"; * Inside diameter=.7500"; Cup length=.4750"; Cone radius=.0500"; * Cone length=.6550IN 40262-S0400 NUT * 720,D21/D21U,D22U,910,B11,M10,N10,N12,S110,S12,T11,T12,U11,Z31 40265-68200 CAP-ADJUSTING [castellated nut cover] 00921-43510 COTTER PIN 40234-S0400 CAP-HUB,FRONT WHEEL * 910,N10,S110,S12,T11,Z31 * 40290-S0400 SEAL-O RING,HUB
Rotor 252 mm
40206-P6510 > 40206-P7210 40206-P7200 <> 40206-P7210 01125-00131 BOLT-ROTOR (4 per side) 01321-00071 WASHER-LOCK,ROTOR (4 per side) * Diameter: 252 mm (9.92 inch) * Height: 29 mm * Thickness (nominal): 20 mm * Thickness (minimum): 18 mm * Hub Reg: 81 mm * Bolt size: M12x1.25 (10.75 mm diameter) * Bolt circle: 4 on 4.5" (114.3 mm) * Weight: 10.5 pounds
Rear rotors: * 268 mm (1979-1981 Model year) * 258 mm (1982-1983 Model year) -- see 280ZX Brake Upgrade * 290 mm (Europe 1983 Turbo)
Front - All interchange as a set with some other parts 41000-P7201 0778-0780 41000-P7210 0880-0881 41000-P9100 0981- 41001-P9190
Be sure to get the caliper bracket with the caliper. The bracket is what bolts to the strut.
Coil Springs & Strut Top
Now the spring of the ZX strut is too large diameter for the B110 strut tower bodywork. So you need do one of the following:
- Use the B110 coil spring (110 mm diameter), spring cup and strut top hat, and fit it to the ZX strut. If you lower the car more than an inch or two you will need to flair the fenders.
- Remove the spring perch and use a weld-on Coilover Springs kit. You can lower the car more by getting the tires in closer to these small-diameter coils (using different offset wheels)
- Remember that that the stock 1200 spring rate is 90 lb/in
- If you wish stiffer springs, use 280ZX rear coil springs in the front of the B110, cut to suitable length
Also drilling may be necessary for the insert to fit into the strut top. Whitesedan used noltec camber/castor adjustable strut tops.
Balljoints and Lower Suspension
The spacing where the 280ZX strut bolts to the steering arm is the same as A10 (1978-1982 Stanza aka 510), 610 (180B), 810 (Maxima, 200B), etc. This is different from the B110/B210 spacing. So, use A10 or B310 (Sunny, 210) parts.
- steering arm (knuckle)
- LCA (same length as B110?)
- lower control arm, slightly longer than B110
- decreases camber to more negative (good)
- increases tread width (good or bad, as wide tires won't tuck up under the fenders)
- steering arm (knuckle)
- outer tie rod ends
All 1980s Datsun/Nissan struts -- up to and including R31 Skyline and 280ZX -- will bolt to an A10 or B310 steering arm, the B310 lower control arm is same length as a 1200 one but will accept a larger steering arm and ball joint. So you can use the B310 Lower control arm with other struts to keep the same 1200 width, or if you want wider track use the A10 arm. Then instead of having to modify B210 castor rods like every one does use the B310 rods.
The A10 ball joints and the B310 ones are the same. Use A10 or B310 outer tie rods and A10 sway bar links because these are thicker.
The Skyline R31 strut does not fit on a 1200/A10 arm, a small ring spacer needs to be machined up. Also it has the wrong spindle again, resulting in increased camber (not good). Fit perfectly with 15x6.5 rims with a 38 offset.
Use B210 sway bar. It is 20mm compared to the 1200s 17mm, and wider to match the extra width from the B310 or A10 lower control arms.
These parts allow the use of any B310/A10/510/610/810/280ZX etc. struts to be fitted.
If using the B310 lower control arm, use the B310 caster rod.
If using the A10 lca, the B110 and B210 Caster rods (aka tc, radius, tension rods) can be used. The length is correct, but bolt spacing needs to be wider for the A10 balljoint and tapped to M10. This means drilling one new hole in the tension rod.
For more details, see Caster Rods.
Grab the whole front strut/brake assembly as well as the brake hoses and the brake bias controller unless you plan on using an adjustable unit. Also grab the brake master cylinder if it's the same style as the stock 210 one. There's no difference in the front suspension/brakes on any of the 79-83 280ZX's, it's the rear brakes that are different for 82-83, the later ones are better.
Use at your own risk. There is no guarantee these steps are complete.
- Disassemble strut, including removing cartridge or guts
- Cut spring cup off the strut
- NO NEED to cut length of strut down, it is already short
- Weld B110 spring cup at appropriate position (use B110 strut as a guide)
- Re-fit 280ZX inserts
- re-assemble using stock B110 spring and top hat
- Fit quick-ratio 280ZX steering knuckle
For H (A14) B210 or any B210 with 2" struts here is the low budget approach:
- Remove struts/brakes from B210
- Remove the 280ZX spring and upper bits, remove the same bits from the B210 struts
- Cut the top half of the B210 spring cup off (the bit welded to the strut tube)
- Put it inside the 280ZX spring cup (weld it on if you like, but don't have to)
- Cut the B210 spring down to 5.5 coils (for low ride height)
- Install cut spring and B210 upper bits onto 280ZX struts
- Bolt back into car, preferably using the 280ZX rubber brake line
- Bleed brakes