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[Datsun 1200 encyclopedia]

Alternator Maintenance

(Difference between revisions)

Datsun 1200 encyclopedia | Recent changes | Switch to MediaWiki mode

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Categories: Charging System | Engine Electrical System

Revision as of 04:21, 25 May 2012
ddgonzal (Talk | contribs)

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Revision as of 04:27, 25 May 2012
ddgonzal (Talk | contribs)
(->Brush Check)
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Line 12: Line 12:
* Left: worn down to the limit line * Left: worn down to the limit line
* right: New * right: New
 +
 +[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=24527 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/24527.jpg]
= Rotor = = Rotor =

Revision as of 04:27, 25 May 2012


Keep your alternator in good condition.

Contents

Brush Check

Worn brushes can cause flickering dash lamp, or intermittent charging.

Very easy to check -- these just unbolt from the rear of the alternator. Replace if worn down to the line.

Brush comparo:
19305.jpg

  • Left: worn down to the limit line
  • right: New

24527.jpg

Rotor

After removing the brushes, you can test the rotor (without disassembling the alternator). Or you can disassemble the alternator.

Using an ohmmeter, check between the two copper slip rings:
19498.jpg

  • Should be around 4.4 ohms (with ohmmeter on lowest range)
    • No continuity means the winding is broken or detached
    • Lower ohms may indicate a short, perhaps from bad insulation
      Neither condition is easily fixable. Replace it.

Also check for isolation:

  • There should be no continuity (even using 1M-ohm scale) between either ring and the rotor metal or shaft (or alternator case).
    If there is, it is shorted. Replace it.


Disassembly

  1. Remove the brush holder assembly
  2. Remove the three 8mm-head long bolts from the rear face. You can use an 8mm socket or 5/16" socket.
  3. Then separate like this:
    19499.jpg

Note that one through-bolt is longer than the other two.

Rotor Maintainence

  1. Rear Bearing Repack: Carefully pry up a bit of the retainer and pack it with high-temp wheel bearing grease. Then carefully tamp the metal back down.
    19500.jpg
  2. Clean the slip rings with ether and polish with super-fine (400 or 600 grit) non-ferrite sand paper.
  3. Wipe off all grease. Carefully remove excess grease from back side of bearing and slip rings.
  4. The front bearing can be packed in a similar way.

To check if the bearings need changing or packing, spin them. They should be silent, and not spin free which indicate there is no more grease in them. They should turn easily, smoothly and silently.

To get to the front bearing:

  1. Remove the pulley with a 13/16" box wrench or socket
    • Use a large screwdriver in the pulley fins to hold it steady while removing the nut
    19501.jpg
  2. After the pulley is off, remove the three screws hold the bearing retainer. Then separate the rotor from the aluminum case plate.
    19502.jpg

Rear Bearing

  • NSK 620-1Z (metal retainer) or 620-1V (rubber retainer)
  • Timken 202SS
  • Timken 201SS
  • BCA/NATIONAL 201SS

Specs:

  • Ball Bearing Outer Race Radius=0.024"
  • Bore=0.4724"
  • Outer Diameter=1.2598"
  • Width=0.3937"
  • Inner Race Radius=0.024"

Front Bearing

  • NSK 620-2Z
  • TIMKEN 203FF
  • TIMKEN 202FF
  • BCA/NATIONAL 202FF
  • SKF 62022ZJ

Specs:

  • Ball Bearing Outer Race Radius=0.024"
  • Bore=0.5906"
  • Outer Diameter=1.378"
  • Width=0.4331"
  • Inner Race Radius=0.024"