Ignition Coil Wiring The Datsun 1200 ignition switch is also known as an "Ignition Starter Switch". For Japan STD and DX models, it is integrated into the Key lock switch. For USA, it bolts to the back of the key cylinder.
STD and DX 1200s built for Japan market have a dash-mounted switch (instead of steering column-mounted). The lock & ignition switch are integrated with only two or three spade terminals on the switch.
SWITCH-IGNITION 25150-G1001 for NON-STEERING LOCK -7803 48750-H1900 for STEERING LOCK -7803 48750-E4700 for NON-STEERING LOCK 7804- * Small type, same as 1980-1982 USA 720
For USA, the ignition switch bolts to the back of the key cylinder. A rectangular wire connector from the dash harness attaches to it. It is not strictly part of the Key lock & barrel, but bolts to it.
Also see Key Lock Cylinder
Later 1200 switches interchange with Datsun B310 and several other Datsun models, but not B210.
- B110 Small size ~28mm diameter
- B110 Large size ~34mm diameter
TIP: On the back of the switch, each contact is marked ('S', 'IG', etc. molded into the plastic). Double-check before replacing to ensure they are the same.
The small-diameter switch has one bolting lug. And has only four spade terminals. It was used on 1971 B110 (and any without ACC position).
Beck/Arnley 2011174 Fits:
- 1982-1987 Brat
- 1986-1987 GL
- 1980-1984 DL
- 1980 GLF
- 1980 GL
- 1980-1987 Standard
- 1968-1973 510
- 1970-1978 240Z, 260Z, 280Z
- 1979-1983 280ZX
- 1972-1973 1200 (B110)
- 1979-1982 210 (B310)
- 1978-1981 510 (A10)
- 1977-1981 810 (Bluebird)
- 1982-1983 Maxima (910 Bluebird)
- 1979-1982 310 (N10)
- 1977-1983 200SX (S10)
ACDelco E1406 ignition switch also fits:
- Same as Beck/Arnley 2011174 except B110 and except Subaru
- 1979 Datsun 620
- 1980-1982 Datsun 720
B210 ignition switch does not interchange with B110 per the parts catalogs.
- AIRTEX 1S6174
- ACDelco E1478A Rockauto
- 1974-1978 B210
- 1973-1976 610
- 1975-1977 710
- 1976-1978 F10
- 1985-1989 DL, GL
- 1985-1987 GL-10
- 1987 Standard
The 1971 switch has four spade terminals. The 1972 and newer adds the "Accessory" position and so has five spade terminals.
North American Wiring
|BW (LW for B210)||ACC (Accessory)
Not present on 1971 switch
|BY (YB for B210)||S (start)|
The switch in the picture with the wires has differently colored wires (WR, L, BL, BW, BY). From these colors and position, I think it is the same wiring as the B310 switch, just different colors.
SwitchSwitch internal connections
|Accessory||Battery (hot) to ACC|
|Run||Battery (hot) to ACC + IG|
|Start||Battery (hot) to IG + Resistor + Start\*|
Where do the wires go on a stock B110?
|switch terminal||Connects to ...|
|IG (ignition/run)||This connects to two things:
On automatic cars*, this goes through the "Nuetral Switch".
Ever had the "sometime it doesn't operate the Starter until I turn the key back and forth a few times" problem?
This occurs because the relatively high current loads of the starter solenoid tend to burn the ignition switch Start contacts after some years. This only gets worse. You might think you could prevent this problem by using a relay. The S wire could go to to a relay, and the relay could go from the Main Fuse to the starter. The problem is if the relay sticks, you won't be able to turn it off with the key. To prevent this, you could use two relays, with the main power fed through a relay connected to the IG terminal of the switch. Then if the starter relay sticks, you could turn key to ACC or OFF to stop it.
It is easiest just to replace the switch.
Starts but does not Run
"It will crank and catch fire when key turned to Start, but dies as soon as I release the key to the ON position"
The coil is getting Start current, but not Run current. Causes may include:
- Ballast Resistor is burned open. It is only use to Run, but not to Start
- Wiring is loose or bad on ballast resistor
- Ignition Switch is bad. START position works, but ON does not
You can test the ignition switch with an ohmmter, which is the most direct way. A test light will work too but needs a voltage feed.
- Pull the wiring connector off the back of the ignition switch
- Unscrew the ignition switch from bracket (early/STD 1200s) or rear of the key lock cylinder (Steering Lock 1200s)
- Check ohms between S and B terminals. Should be infinite ohms (no reading)
Turn switch with screwdriver to Start and hold it there. Ohms between S and B should be 0 ohms. If it does not test out correctly, get another ignition switch.