hey pigdog, nice work with these, im also in yr 12 and couldnt help doing some work on my project cars before my exams either.
seems to be a common trait with me and my mates as well.
these are quite nice, would be good to put them on the track to test them out, see it they would keep the diff down and therefore more corner exit speed.
keep up the good work mate

they work well, only slight amount of diff movement when launching hard, but that i think is due to it all still being rubber mounted and the front spring hanger having the 4 rubber bushes in the chassis
so with some alloy ones i dont think it would tramp what so ever

diff shouldnt turn inside the U bolt as the mount on the diff holds it nice and firm against the spring

WOODY, i did notice that it stiffened up the rear a fair bit when they first went in(before the different shocks and leaves were in) and held the rear alot flatter when cornering

at the moment i dont think it should tramp what so ever as i now have stiffer shocks, tramp rods and a ute leaf flipped on top of the leaf pack with the long end facing forward

you should be able to pull leaves out to soften the rear end up as much as possible (well in drag for our purpose). in my experience, when the power is transfered through the chassis rather than leaves, the leaves only job is to hold the car upoff the diff. This is what i did with my brothers car, i took the overloading spring from the bottom out (only three left) and the rear end is really really soft, perfect for big launch and the power goes from the diff straight into the chassis with no tramp what so ever.

i've got pretty much exactly the same setup in my ute, i couldnt do a skid at all before due to killer tramp. but now it hooks up like nothing else. if you want to spend a bit of money you can buy rose joints and bars from mcdonalds bros racing for about $250 and weld them in for a good setup

Hey cool, it's done then, I'll fit them too. I get good skids without them, lots of smoke and sideways action, but no tramp. However, when launching hard in a straight line, I get extremely bad tramp, sometimes it sounds like a jackhammer nailing the roof...

All I need to do is find similar control arms, and the tierod ends. For what it's worth, I still like the rubber mounts in the chassis, and also on the front connection of the tramp rod. Even though it might not be so effective, I think it takes out a lot of vibrations, which is slightly more important to me since I drive the car on public roads quite often. With alloy bushes I think one might develop stress fractures rather to often.

O, what I did notice was that the pinion has tilted back a bit, and stayed that way. Also the mountings for the shocks at the rear of the axle has bent upwards a little, probably from the axle turning in the u-bolts. Think I'll straighten them, and weld in little triangles for extra bracing, and some bigger u-bolts. That should stop the axle from turning in the u-bolts. Will take some pics of what I mean with the turning in the u-bolts...

nice work...

im gonna be looking at a similar setup for my ute..

did you make them?

got any more

Any pics on how they are mounted at the front??

Cheers. Adam.

theae are the rear mounts


these are the front mounts ...


and these are the bars ......

i sooo wish i had a bigger garage

Nice job!
It would be nice if you could fabricate a whole new bracket for the front mount caues that looks a little flimsy.

ok, made these my self coz i couldnt affort to get new shock

the main bar is a tarago rear control arm
adjusment is through a 120y tierod, with one nut machined down(angle grinder and bench grinder) to fit into the control arm and then welded and the other to lock it in position
the mounts are cut up 120y spring hangers( front 120y used as rear mount and rear hanger unbelt and welded to 1200 front one)
then just welded a steel tube to the end of the 120y tierod so that it could be bolted to the rear mount

the pictures pretty much speak for them selves, but the front mount would have to be changed in a ute as they have a different spring hanger

EDIT: there is more than enough strength in the front mount, its welded on both sides and has no thoughts of going any where

and yes they work, and i have ripped a skid

it's good to see you've been using your study time wisely
have you finished yet ??

yeah i finished mid way through last week, so ive had plenty of lazing time and time to build insanely powerful utes

and i did actually make these in the weekend between 2 of my maths exams coz i didnt feel the need to learn any more

Why are they adjustable??? is it just for ease of fitment or does it serve a purpose???

coz i could
and because they needed to be longer, the control arm was too short