@Velociti

PM send

Kulula, you really do have contacts in the right places. Good for you altough I think you don't need them really with the knowledge you have.

Rob Green is expensive.
Bring it to Bloem. My one friend was a Nissan Mechanic and had a Nissan Sabre 200GXi. Knows his Datsun/Nissans as his dad also owns a GX from new.
He now works at Mercedes. His dad and himself works Tuesdays and Thursday nights on cars for fun. Servicing,etc.
Think he will rebuild it for a very good price.
You can always try Vanderlinde conversions as Shaun van der linde is a ex Nissan touring car driver.
And PLEASE get that diff sorted that makes it look like a cricket.The standard bakkie diff will be strong enough or at least get that one shortened.

Look to be honest, unless you are looking for all out power, I'd say rather give the S20DE a good working over, and keep it NA, not much will catch you anyway. However if you insist on going turbo, you could for a reasonable price get a set of forgies, build the turbo manifold, and have it running a turbo without problems.

You don't want to start the whole CA18DET vs SR20DET debate, believe me, you'll only be more confused afterwards.

All I'm saying is, you get SR20 goodies far more readily, their parts are easily obtainable in ZA, and you already have everything set up for a SR20. I know, my bro-inlaw had a sh!tter of a time to get a good quality head gasket for his CA18DET, and even the cambelt...

An engine swap is not for the faint of heart, and you'll probably end up spending way, way more time and money to get the CA18DET in there. Take into account that you'll have to at the very least purchase or change the following, as they are all variables that you don't know before you actually start the swop, and already spent a crap load of money getting the major components;

*CA18DET, scarce as hens teeth, and more expensive than the SR20DET. worst of all, as you don't know what you're getting when you buy these import motors, the CA18DET might even need a rebuild itself, and they are extremely expensive to rebuild...
*Complete gearbox, or bell housing if you could find one to fit the SR20 gearbox.
*Engine mountings, as the two engines differ around there, and the CA18 likes lying at an angle for oil return.
*Gearbox mountings, if you change the box
*Wiring loom, connection points are different
*Water pipes
*Most if not all vacuum signal points.
*Maybe even the tunnel, as the bell housing differ, it might be to big or something.
*Clutch piping most probably

You will be better of to simply rebuild the SR20 with some low CR pistons, buying a good turbo and a manifold, and just fitting it back in. You already know everything is there to get it running, once the turbo is fitted, it simply needs a small change to the exhaust for the down pipe, and a good tune at a reputable dyno shop, and you're on the road.

I would even go further, and say leave the engine in there as is, first build/tack the turbo mani together, so you know the turbo fits, get it welded up. Get the oil piping for the turbo sorted. Then take the car for the zorst to be done, and fit and do the piping for the intercooler. You could now even take it for a tune on low boost I would say 0.4 bar, and drive it around like that for a while. Yes one can turbo a NA engine, just keep the boost within sane levels.

So now you know everything works, then if you have the bucks and the time it's a quick operation to have the motor rebuild with those forgies, maybe even a head flow. fit it back in, and you know for a fact with the lower CR you can drive it on the tune that's in the ECU already, until it's run in. Then take it back to the tuners, and ramp up the boost to whatever you like, or build the motor to take, have it adjusted, and be amazed.

That's my best advice, and I think most if not all of the more experienced members with these SR/CA swaps will agree.

Why, has it been neglected? Would be a pity, from the pics it still looks as if it's in good nick. Anyway, since it's already setup for the SR20DE, why not just go for the SR20DET? You buy the motor, remove the tappet covers, check for rust, do the same with the sump, and if all is ok, it's a straight bolt in, and appart from some setup you could get it running in no time. I'm not speaking from experience, but I don't think the CA18 and SR20 uses the same bellhousings, and you may even find differences in the mountings, plus the water hoses are different and all kinds of stuff. Lots of work all over again, and with the SR20DET you will find more performance goodies at a better price, and parts for them would be more plentiful...

Nike and Nissan should run a quick branding campaign with the last few bakkies left, rather than branding it Champ, they should brand it "Just do it", would be quite apt I think... and they should throw in a free set of soles to drive it with...

EDIT: Did a quick search, and the bell housings do differ...

Damnit, that's cheating, buying a car that's been converted already...*hehehe*

Anyway, I'm contemplating maybe getting a new bakkie as well, but it's just a thought, and a long one at that. With petrol prices going up as they are, one's pocket can only benefit having a 1400 bakkie on the yard, they really are frugal when driven sanely. Unfortunately, knowing myself, and having help and suggestions from other members on this site, it's bound not to stay standard...

I hope when you start the new project, you guys will stop playing with dolls.

I hope the little one in the pusher is getting some attention as well!