Those carbs , as far as I was told, are Solex, but perhaps what you are saying is happening, maybee they call all sidedrafts Solex. I will double check. The radiator looks small, it is the stock A12 rediator probably, my A15...(originally A14 in car)...has a bigger one, made for the originally mounted A14 engine...(in my car).You can see here the thermostat /hose housing. My A14 cyl head, H72, has the US thermostat housing with the air valve on it, can I use this kind of thermostat housing in my cyl head(..US H72)... without any issues, or will there be ports left open for the air galleries? I'm asking because on monday I will take the car for it's last ever smog check, after this one last time appointment with misery, my Datsun will be exempted for ever from the smog check, so I am planing to rid the engine of all unnecesary scrap.Everything will go, headers will come in,air pump, and all the rest of the air valves will be gone.(antibackfire valve too, is this oK?)... The valve cover will have a mini breather for the cranckcase,...(It does now, but reconecting to the factory air filter assembly for test)... should I get another for the other side of the engine? ...(the block ventilation to PVC valve hose)...and close the manifold PVC port?, using a breather filter at this hose' end instead of going to the PCV valve?...(That I have not done, but might be better, no scrap air into the mix). The only thing that I might leave is the gas tank ventilation, am I in the right track?
Headers, no air system, the current 32/36 Weber, ...(to which I will change, just for the test, the primary iddle and primary main jets for emmisions.)...with the oK jets after test, I should get a healthier more responsive engine, so I hope. When using the headers,I will go 2 inch pipe to the end, with a turbo muffler,and the intake manifold...(which is the stock manifold,to be used with the existing 32/36 Weber, no Weber performance manifolds made to use w/ DGEV 32/36 Weber)... will be left with the so called stove metal plate underneath, no more stock exhaust extractor there to couple with. Should I use this "stove "plate, or use a heavier metal plate?. The EGR valve opening will be closed too.
Anybody done this before?... probably yes, but, I would like to hear from the experience.
Jaime

Quote:

Uh, never say "for ever," Jaime. You may end up regretting it if you trash all your smog equipment. Better to stow it all in an apple box and put it in the rafters. Not only can you not be sure this law won't be repealed (a possibility just like the recent tripling of the use tax), but you may not be aware that you are still required to keep and maintain any emissions devices on your vehicle, despite the smog check exemption. It's again the law.

Quote:Yes, with the air pump system gone, the anti-backfire valve is not needed.

Quote:What do you mean? Even V8's only need one engine breather, and one PCV valve.

Quote:Bad idea. The PCV system is your friend, keeps the engine clean, help prevent oil vapor from getting out into other people's lungs and keep the engine from burning extra oil.

I agree to keep the fuel ventilation and charcoal cannister. This does not hurt performance but does help the environment.

Hy guys. Matt, you 're right on that one, I did that already, keeping the stock air filter assembly and smaller Weber jets for the smog check(every 2 years). I will keep all this crap in a box, hope it will not be open untill a far decendant of mine in about 500 years, will discover what "uncle Jaime" used to go through every 2 years!
DGONZ, I see, I will keep the PVC.
Jaime_________________

Connecting the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm directly to the port on the carb will make a noticeable difference. Normally it goes through various emission controls like switches (e.g. coolant temp switch) and some "delay' valves that prevent the advance from working under all conditions.

The EGR also affects performance adversely.

Yes, that Vaccum advance hose will go directly, no more selenoid control valve, through the thermostatically controled spark system, bunch 'a crap! I became an expert in A series smog connections when I took my original Hitachi off the car for cleanup a few years ago, for the smog test, remember the "EGR passage" as it is called...(that part of the intake manifold that comes apart, where the EGR is mounted, and the little pipe from the exhaust pipe goes in to the intake manifold)...all clogged up with carbon and tar, completely closed off. I did a good job, I think, ..(although that Hitachi went kaPUT a few months later, replaced by the 32/36, which was meant to be a twin DCOE set up, but faced with the smog test, got forced, coerced! into the "more tame" Weber carburator.)...and every engine/manifold I've seen in the junk yard has an EGR passage all cloged, no wonder nobody passes that smog test, and Datsuns end up in the junk yard.It is a simple operation, clean up, but , unimanigable up until the passage is opened up and inspected(bolts hold it in place). Do Aussie and others ' A series motors have the EGR passage? If not, their manifolds are lighter and , probably, more efficient.
My EGR will go away, the passage will stay, no way around it, but a plate will close the EGR opening.I will have headers(Dimlight's)...so no more connection to the extractors. The intake manifold will keep the so called "stove", and I hope that will be enough to keep it sealed off at the bottom.
It will be lighter too, because the heavy bracket that holds the air conditioner, which I got rid off, still remains in place, holding in place the air pump.
....air pump, air conditioner, ...seems like I'm talking about a fish tank, no more!

Jaime____________________________

Jamie
look arround for a water heated intake I'm not sure how many went to cali but they will flow better than the ones with the flat stove plate in them.

Water heated intake manifolds for A series, I will look into it, never saw one here, at least in California. Will search around.
Jaime.__________________________

Heated intake is bad for performance -- it's the opposite of an intercooler!

The thermostatic heat riser (stove valve) is better, as it closes after the engine warms up. This improves emissions with a cold engine, and doesn't hurt performance.

Although ... when the ambient air temperature drops close to freezing, you'll wish you had the heated air intake from the stock air cleaner. Probably not an issue in Los Angeles. However, I've had the carb freeze up several times on me at about 37-38 degrees -- the throttle sticks at cruise, and won't idle down ... then starts running bad. It's not the heat riser that prevents this but the heated-air intake. This is the "motor" for it: