Surprisingly not that different.... Starts a bit easier and seems to build up revs a touch quicker, but other than that not much... I haven't had time to put in new plugs and leads yet so I will get back to you... Remember though that this is not an "high energy" unit like the bluebird one, just a plain old electronic dissy with no points to worry about..
I think all the E-series distributors are high-energy, being they are from the 1980s. The early electronic distibutors (circa pre-1978) used a ballast resistor. Generally speaking, if it doesn't use a ballast resistor it is 'high energy'.
I have just put a high energy electronic ign on my A-series and it starts with just a small touch of the starter button and quick prime of the twin webers. The biggest difference will be that it will be much more able to keep reliable timing and spark at high rpm such as 7000-9000 rpm... its probably the most significant thing as far as perfromance you can do to your engine after putting twin webers on it....
I have just put a high energy electronic ign on my A-series and it starts with just a small touch of the starter button and quick prime of the twin webers. The biggest difference will be that it will be much more able to keep reliable timing and spark at high rpm such as 7000-9000 rpm... its probably the most significant thing as far as perfromance you can do to your engine after putting twin webers on it....
Would the high energy ign help if the plugs were bad Converted? How long would you have to lean on the starter then do you reckon? Roughly how many volts do you think would be passed through the human body if someone held onto a lead while your high energy ign was cranking? A ball park figure not necessarily based on your own experience would be acceptable.
This kinda reminds me of this joke... kinda off topic, but its sorta related
test for Ignition Output:
Hold medium wrench in one hand, Sears wrench preferred for accuracy of test 'cause other smooth wrenches are too slick for throwin'!
With engine runnin', grab hold of the plug end of an ignition cable with the other hand and hold on tight!
This will more than likely cause you to throw wrench! KV output is based on how far the wrench wuz thrown!
10 feet = approx. 10,000 volts 20 feet = approx. 15,000 volts 30 feet = approx. 25,000 volts Over 30 feet = Caution! Must be one of them new dis-is-it ignition systems, use bigger wrench and retest.
Electricity will not usually hurt you, instead it is the back of your neck going through the hood latch that really ruins your day!!
Thats why you modify the mounting plate not the dissy, so the vacumn advance doesnt foul on the engine. Either way aslong as it works. The original black wire from the dissy is the one that went to the negative side of the coil. Either take it off or just tape it up and foget about it.
With lack of any experience on a welder I found it easier to modify what I had rather than enginier something new..As you say, either way it still works.Thanks for the info on that wire,I assumed that was what it was for just wanted to be sure..