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| dazzasute |
Posted: 2004/12/22 15:14 Updated: 2004/12/22 15:14 |
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)   Joined: 2004/3/15 From: Perth Western Australia Posts: 1018 |
 Re: hydrolic clutch conversion This is something thats been missing from this site for quite a while, so here's the rundown:
Parts required (mine were all from a 1980 200b):
pedal box
clutch master cylinder
clutch pedal
I also used a part of the firewall that matched the stud pattern, and the hole for the master cylinder.
The pedal box contains the two studs which stick through the firewall, and hold the clutch master cylinder in place.
Remove the 1200 clutch pedal, and cut both ends off the rotation point so that you are left with a piece of pipe which you can use as a spacer on the pivot bolt. This is neccesary as the brake pedal and the clutch pedal use the same bolt to pivot off. The bit you have left spaces out the brake pedal nicely.
Remove the clutch pedal, and cut the end section of the pedal box. (Cut generously, and trim as required)
Line up where the two studs with the indentation (as seen from the interior) at a reasonable hight.
Drill three holes, one for each stud, and one for the master cylinder. If you have the piece of the firewall, make the holes 2-5mm oversize.
Trim down the pedal box piece until it fits parrallel to the 1200 pedal box. Take this bit slowly, so you don't cut out any more than you have to. Try pushing the bolts through the holes first, and then rotating the piece of the pedal box towards the steering column. You can see the slot i cut out which slides over the upright from the original pedal box.
Get the bit of the firewall (if you have it) and make it fit nicely over the studs. Bend the edges around so that the meet the firewall, and tac weld on.
When you are satisfied that the pieces fit properly, weld them securely in place.
Cut the original spring bracket off the 200b, and weld this onto the 1200 pedal box.
I cut the stopper off the 200b, and braced it off the original 1200 one.
At the end of it all, my clutch pedal was reasonably close to the hight of the brake pedal, and despite my tunnel being wider, pushed all the way to the firewall.
So thats it. If i skipped anything, or if anyone wants more photos, let me know!
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| 4NIK8 |
Posted: 2005/2/20 0:41 Updated: 2005/2/20 0:41 |
Home away from home   Joined: 2003/11/4 From: Melbourne, Victoria Posts: 638 |
Re: hydrolic clutch conversion i believe i am going to have to do this conversion as well. if you look at my engine bay shots you can see ive got the clutch cable running around the front of the engine.
now heres my problem. the clutch cable isnt doing what its ment to be doing. i thought it felt a bit to tough yesterday and i mean TUFF. the guy at autobarn said it was harder then in his race car, and that was hard. so anyway, today, start the car. hrmz. wont go into gear. after some fidling i try start the car in gear with the clutch in but it was just rolling as if the clutch wasnt working. so ok. i figure that he hasnt set it up correct or something and after talking to some other people, hydrolic clutch seems to be the way to go.
dazza, can you get some more piccys please?
cheers, evan
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| dazzasute |
Posted: 2005/2/23 8:29 Updated: 2005/2/23 8:29 |
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster) Joined: 2004/3/15 From: Perth Western Australia Posts: 1018 |
Re: hydrolic clutch conversion sure, what pics do ya want?
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| 4NIK8 |
Posted: 2005/2/23 10:08 Updated: 2005/2/23 10:08 |
Home away from home Joined: 2003/11/4 From: Melbourne, Victoria Posts: 638 |
Re: hydrolic clutch conversion umm i guess anything relevent to the conversion. i just need to print them out and pass them on to the mechanic  sorry if this is a silly question, but the conversion you did, will it still all be the same for a diferent motor like a 12a cheers, evan |
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| LAGWAGON |
Posted: 2005/2/23 16:20 Updated: 2005/2/23 16:20 |
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)  Joined: 2004/4/15 From: Melbourne Vic Posts: 1664 |
Re: hydrolic clutch conversion the hydraulic conversion is carried out if the gearbox requires it, not because its necessarily a better method. evan, in your case, if the gearbox is made for a cable (which i'm guessing it is since it worked for a bit) then thats what you need to use. my mate has an HSV 215kw senator and it uses a cable clutch. the hardness of the pedal that you are feeling means that something musn't be right, not that it is not a satisfactory system. have you had a look at both ends of the cable to see if they seem OK?
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| LittleFireyOne |
Posted: 2007/6/10 8:54 Updated: 2007/6/10 8:54 |
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)  Joined: 2005/8/27 From: Townsville, Qld Posts: 2964 |
Re: hydrolic clutch conversion I'd only go to a hydralic clutch if the gearbox needed it or there was space issues with a motor and box package I may have in the car. That is a good read though for anyone who needs to do this to thier car |
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Misc
2004/12/22 14:50 
Tell a friend
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