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| Slow EFI conversion project thread |
Subject: Slow EFI conversion project thread
by smellsofbikes on 2022/8/21 3:01:00
What I have:
Datsun A14 in the garage, Datsun A14 in my 1975 Triumph Spitfire. The Spitfire consistently runs rich, has issues starting because the auto choke and I have arguments, and mostly I need to pass an emissions test next year for the first time since this car was new as a result of changes in state laws. So I'm heading down the EFI route. Besides, it's supposed to give a bit more power too, right?
I bought a Speeduino kit and built a simulator for it and played with it for a while, so I have some ideas about how to use TunerStudio and some rough approximations of the A14 fuel needs. I also got a throttle body from, I dunno, a Kia? It's a 1.6 liter engine, so it's about right. (I 3d printed a bunch of throttle bodies to try to get a feel for if I could cast one, but came to the conclusion that $20 on ebay to get the TB plus the throttle position sensor was a much better use of my time.)
So today I got the impact wrench out and removed the crank pulley fixing bolt. Oh hey I didn't realize that the pulley is essentially a seal. Well, that means I probably can't make one myself, because I was thinking about machining a perfect little crank pulley: just the one roughly 130mm pulley diameter, with a nice flat area I could mill into a 36-1 indicator wheel, and then an extension area for some day if I ever get the energy to try bolting on a Gilmer drive.
The toothed wheel ID is 102.3mm. The smallest pulley OD is 103.4mm. I sure hope it's a good concentric casting...
As this will be spinning fast, I indicated in the bore, not the outside, since that's what I need as the reference point. This was rotten. I had to indicate it in end to end first, and then radially, and I can't see where the indicator's touching since it's way down inside, and the indicator doesn't like the keyway. (It's okay if you can get it close enough that it only drops about 0.01" when it goes off the end of the keyway, but that takes a while to get to.)
But once I got it aligned in the four jaw chuck, it cut nicely and the wheel went on as a quite tight sliding fit. This way it'll hold on well enough that I can get the sensor hooked up and running, and then braze the toothed wheel onto the pulley to keep it solid.
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