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| Re: A10 turbo. Has anyone done it? What are the limitations? |
Subject: Re: A10 turbo. Has anyone done it? What are the limitations?
by D on 2021/11/19 7:24:55
""It's not the money.....but im thinking that the a10 turbo has more potential for cheaper"" LOL
But if you really want big cubes from an A10 do what MG and Model T guys do and that is fit a ladder cap mains
that allows 5 bearing cranks into 3 mains blocks. It uses the sump gasket bolt holes for extra support.
Dont have a pic atm but with datsun A series it is much easier than making a ladder brace.
Get a cheap early A12 block for the internals, machine the top off the block completely to 1cm from the end of the bore
leaving the skirt all around it to hold it all in place, re-drill and tap sump bolt up holes put 10mm studs on the
A10 block side so skirt just slides on (oil pick up on A12 section brazed to maintain seal in that 8cm area)
Line bore your A10 block with the A12 section bolted up as a ladder brace to make sure crank mains are spot on.
The you have a ladder brace you bolt up the A12 crank down onto this ladder mains brace using 2 mains caps for
the A10 missing No 2 and No 4 caps so you have bolts for main cap 2 and 4 bolted from the top.
Then fit your A12 5 mains ladder brace holding the A12 crankshaft by main caps no2 and 4 up to your A10 block
then bolt up mains passages for 1,3,5 and you have the A12 crank bolted up to the A10 block. Put in a 4mm Flat
plate and Daihatsu terios transmission Sump so you have a removable hump for the front section.
https://image-cdn.beforward.jp/autopar ... 58757/PAS00358_067aed.jpg
https://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t419/duongpn/68.gif
The 4mm plate will need to cover the bore all four bore holes but allows enough are to fit Terios Auto transm sump
then you will have to use A15 pistons milled and bushed for the A10 rods as the
stroke is 5.5mm more and stock A10 pistons are 32.5mm or use Kawasaki 75-76mm bike pistons with 26mm comp height.
You will have an A10 that has A13 capacity, 5 bearing crank and super strong crankcase setup
I had this priced and it was $50 for the A12 bottom end, I angled grind the A12 block have it machined down for
$100, line bore hybrid A10 with brace $150, make your own 4mm steel plate drill for 10mm stud holes and
cut out for Terios mini sump and drill and tap. Sump pick is easy enough just need to also drill through the
base of the ladder for oil to pass from bore holes to the mini sump where it is pick up by oil pick up unit.
For $350 to 400aud you have an A12 crank but you will need more for pistons unless you mill your stockies or mill
and bush some A15 pistons and bore and hone for 76mm giving you an A13 for around $600 dollars.
The MG guys do this for their B series block to use the 5 bearing main crankshaft of later B series engines but
the metallurgy of MG 5 mains caps have proven to be weaker than 3 main bearing cranks and so a waste of time as
many have snapped the 5 mains bearing crank from 1 and 2. Then MG weirdos fork out for billet in the end when
we datsun guys have no issues with our high quality factory stuff.
https://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm ... atsun%201000/A10_blok.jpg
with this
http://datsun1200.com/uploads/newbb/174_6142886c66828.jpg
Use the early A12 block easy to braze up, drill and tap bolt then machine off or seal the oil pick are with 2 pack steel putty.
http://datsun1200.com/uploads/photos/25675.jpg
Its all finicky but cheap and a great project for little investment you have a stout big capacity bottom end
with original A10 engine number casting and able to be boosted later on as well.
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