I have a Cylinder head from an GX car for sale:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBa ... ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

Thank you!!!

What year does it look to be? What L-series motor does it have; L18?

Does anyone have a picture of this car?

Crud! Wish I were there! It would be like me finding a RHD Z-car here for free.

Could the car have been stolen and then some parts taken from it?

What are the laws reguarding abandoned cars in Australia? Can you just take it and file for a title?

Here in the USA, you have to be a city/state authorized agent to pick up cars that are say on the side of the road. But, I wonder what about a car park?

Thank you for looking!

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I wish I still had one, I would offer it to you. But, from what I understand the H72 (low-comp GX head) would be a good high-flow turbo head. As it is low-comp to start, and with a head gasket shim, I think it would do very well. I got the ones I had from 1978 B210 GX cars, so you maybe able to find one if you look hard. I was able to auction them off for US$120 each (one was sold to Australia).

There is a short section in the heads tech section on this head.

I have seached for this, but all I could find was talk on the Nismo pump.

I would like to know if there is any difference in volume/pressure between the A14/A15 GX engine oil pumps and the standard A14/A15 oil pumps.

I would not think there would be since it's not a race spec motor or turbo.

Thank you.

The only way it would be worth it would be if you were going to really build the motor up and run more power than a SR20DET could do on high boost. Besides, the car's weight balance will be shot; it's a heavy load for a car that was not designed to carry such a large engine up front.
But, hey, it looks cool! I have seen an L-series put into a S13 and I have to admit that I maybe tempted to do a conversion like that.

I am no expert in A-series turbocharging. However, looking at turbo kits for the Nissan L-series, I would say no more than 5psi for this motor, as it is "draw through" and not "blow through".

There are several problems with the draw through turbo systems, they include:

1. A situation called "flame back" where, under certain circumstances, the air/fuel mix in the turbo/induction system can ignite inside the them and literally shoot out of the front of the turbo. This can cause SERIOUS damage and toast the car. do not put the air filter too close to the turbo in this system; put it very far away.

2. During, particularly off-throttle moments, the air/fuel mix can settle out inside the turbo compressor housing.

3. No blow-off valve can be used in the draw-thru type since it would vent air and fuel into the atmosphere, VERY BAD! Since you would not have a blow-off valve, you would have a bad case of compressor surge during off throttle periods. This is bad for the turbo and its seals, etc.

4. No intercooler, very limited boost!

Just so you know!

I would try something along the lines of what has been said; Take off the manifold and tap each manifold runner and then use standard pipe and fitting from a plumbing or hose/fitting shop and bridge them. Have an output to the transmission line somewhere on that bridge tube. Easy and should be less then $20 in parts. Be sure to have the manifold cleaned out very well after the tapping, you don't want any metal flakes from the manifold going into the engine.

Be sure to get a new rotor too! I like to replace the cap and rotor at the same time, just to keep running well.