Yeah... I got that about the B vs BLU from one of the people I spoke to today. I actually still have the 72mm OD bearing that Nissan gave me a couple weeks ago... it's an NTN 6306B/32C4 and it has two seals. So I'm hoping the 6206B/32C4 is the same. I think it probably is.

Nissan Parts is a good find. They have the bearing.

BTW, I was quoted $31.71CAD ea.

ah... yes! My problem was I was phoning the industrial bearing places. They aren't allowed to sell automotive OEM bearings so they all told me it's unavailable. But I found a place that does. The company is called Bearing & Transmission. Had to call NTN to figure that out.

You are right, the bearing is still available, though it might not have the seals. Just waiting to hear back about that. The only one they had listed was 6206B/32C4.

I should've posted on here right away.

I'm in desperate need of an axle bearing for my '72 1200. It's the Nissan 43215-18000 one, 62mm OD x 32mm ID x 16mm wide, not the 72mm OD. Does anyone know where I might find one? Nissan Canada can't find one, we ordered one from Japan, but they've discontinued it.

Just thought I'd broadcast my plea here first before cutting up my driveshaft to mate to a b210 rear end.

Well, there are standard sizes of bearings available, but Nissan didn't use one here. Apparently standard practice in the automotive industry to keep customers from buying them from any old bearing shop.

Another solution might be to turn the axle down to 30mm, which would then accept the standard 6206 bearing. But I'd also have to make a 1mm walled tube to space the axle back up to 32mm nom. to accept the hardened collar that goes on after the bearing. The hardened collar is what the seal runs on.

My rear passenger side axle bearing went on my 72 1200. It's the 62mm OD one, not the more common 72mm. I ordered the bearing from Nissan, but when it arrived, it turned out to be the larger one. Unfortunately, and stupidly, I cut the old bearing off before receiving this bogus bearing. And now Nissan is telling me the bearing has been discontinued from Japan! I'm hooped!

I've phoned around town, and no one in the Datsun circle has the bearing, or even a spare axle with bearing on it. These cars are getting extremely rare here in Canada. So my only option seems to be to buy a whole b210 rear end and swap out the old 1200 one. I've been told I'll have to shorten my propeller shaft, perhaps even weld the rear u-joint from the b210 on, and also fab lower shock mounts.

Any suggestions or tips before I go down this path?

Thanks ddgonzal. I'm surprized they didn't ask me when I ordered it.

I'm doing the clutch in my car and I need help to identify the friction disc that came out of it. The transmission is a dogleg 63A and the friction disc has four 'torsion' springs and the input shaft has 24 spline teeth.

Unfortunately, I thought I knew the orgin of the tranny to be from a 78 b210 and that's the kit I bought. But the friction disc it came with has a smaller internal spline... the input shaft would have only 18T. All the other parts seem to be the same as what came out. Release bearing, clutch spring... all the same.

The really crappy thing is that I didn't figure it out until I couldn't get the fricken tranny back in.

I'll post a picture of my original friction disc if it helps. Also, I have an A14... not sure if that helps at all, I got the engine separately from the tranny.

I have the twin Hitachi SU set up on an A14 with GX head. I recently cleaned out the carbs, and have been trying to tune them. I balanced them using the tube in the ear method which seemed to work fine, but setting the mixture was a different story.

I've read two methods for setting the twin SU mixture. One I read off a link from the 1200 wiki, and one that I read from the Haynes Weber/SU carb manual. The wiki link says to push the lifter pin in all the way quickly and listen to the rpms, but Haynes says to push it in only 1/32" after slack has been taken up. A lean carb will cause the engine to die, a rich carb will cause the rpm to rise and the a correct mixture will cause the rpms to rise slightly, then fall slightly. I'm not sure if it really makes a difference if you follow the wiki link method or the haynes manual method; I tried both.

Anyways, when I got the rpm to rise slightly and fall slightly when either of the lifter pins were pushed in, the engine idled poorly. One thing I remember about tuning carbs is that as you adjust the mixture and you approach correct, the rpms should rise. So this confused me. Do I trust the lifter pins or the rpms?

Not sure about your side of the world, but over here practically every company that sells header wrap also sells a sealing product. You spray it on after you wrap and it's supposed to prevent rusting.

If you're still worried about corrosion, you might also want to paint the headers with a proper header paint. It should be a a silica-ceramic coating and you have to following the curing directions closely otherwise it will probably come off. The curing directions involve heating and cooling cycles with increasing temp with each cycle. It can be done with the header on the car.

I'd be interested in that picture for sure. Thanks.