Actually, the Maxima does come with a manual trans. But yes, they are front wheel drive but I have done in-depth studying of these engines and with a Nissan Pathfinder bellhousing, the
engine CAN be mounted north-south. Mechanically, a Pathfinder is identical to the ZXTT 5-speed. As for why I would choose this engine: I love the smooth, linear power delivery of the VQ30,
I'm not interested in top-end power but substantial low-end torque. For a V6, the VQ30 gets pretty good gas mileage also. Another thing is, my brother-in-law rebuilds transmissions and has a
mint-condition 300Z transmission sitting in his shop. The only thing that's motivating me to put in the V6 is basically at this point, it's very economical as I'd only have to buy the VQ
engine and I've worked with these engines before. It seems that putting in the VQ35 would actually be a better idea, but I'm not very familiar with that powerplant. But i'll see. If i were
to go with any turbo motor, it'd be the RB26DETT, now that's some serious power...

Interesting...I also like teh CA18 and the SR20 because they are so darn tough and can handle infinite boost, but I really want to go with a N/A approach. I'm probably ruling out the
VH45DE because it's just so darn big. But as I said before, 300ZXTT manual trans have been mated to these engines with no prob. About the VQ35DE that's a very interesting proposition: does
it come with a manual trans though? Also, is it a bit heavier than the VQ30DE? I prefer the V6's over turbocharged 4 cylinders because of the immediate power and torque they offer. Heck,
maybe I'd even go with a turbocharged V6, =). I'll have to see about it. ANother question though, has anyone ever dabbled with the suspension of the 1200? I hate live axles...

I once had a head bolt break on an Isuzu engine. Even after removing all the other head bolts, the head would not lift up over the broken bolt. I was able to lift it up about a centimeter
and cut the bolt (next to the block) with a hacksaw. Then it was just a question of getting the bolt out of the block, which was actually quite easy by grabbing the stub with Vise-Grips.
Due to corrosion, the bolt was stuck in the head and had to be driven out.

I was trying to remove my datsun A12 head off when i broke one of the midle studs, now i cannot remove the head, can anyone help me and tell me of some way to remove the head,
it doesnt matter if i damage the head since i have a spare one.

Best Regards

On hooking up the electronic distributor; you CAN NOT use the original coil with the external resistor. You have to use an internal resistor coil. There are two wires that go to the coil
and the resistor in the wiring harness. One is used to fire the coil when the ignition switch is in the START position, the other is used when the switch is in the RUN or ON position and
it goes to the resistor. Connect these two wires together and put them onto the + side of the coil. Then run a wire from the + coil to the electronic distributor and another wire from the
- side of the coil to the other wire to the distributor and it should work. You may have a bit of problem determining which wire goes to the + and - sides to the distributor. Email me and
I can email you a wiring diagram, just let me know which year you have and if it is an aotumatic or stick shift. I do not have a wiring diagram for the electronic distributor.

Does anyone have an extra set of front bumper brackets for a 71-72? I have a 73 sedan with the brackets that put the bumper away from the body. Please let me
know. -Ed

Ive installed the A14 engine in my 1200 and im having a problem with wiring the distributor. The 1200 distributor has one point where the negative lead from the coil connects, but the
A14 engine has two. Is one the earth? I have the coil wired correctly and it has power to it but it seems that no matter how i connect the distributor up i still cant get a good spark
out of the coil, and I have tested the coil and it is not the problem. There is also no spark in the distributor.

PS. Im not an electrician!

Apparently the CA20 is a like the Danny Devito character in 'Twins' of the CA family. The CA18/16 are very finely built engines. I've heard some techs refer to them as a 'baby GTR'
engines. They are built stronger with better castings, machining and components. I considered for about 180 seconds, the possibility of using the CA20 block, but when told how bad
they were, I quickly forgot about the idea.

Hope this helps,
Chris

Hey sopdadope, welcome to the club. I've heard rumors of the VQ30, is it true that it is an aluminum version of the VG30 and what does/did it come in? I'd say hell yes go
for it! Although, a Nissan V8 would be really cool too. All in all my vote is to do it if you have the means. Best of luck. Tim

Thats O.K. I was having second thoughts about buying them, too. The shipping costs are probably more than the seats
are worth, anyway.