no not wheel spacers, as far as I know they are illegal here...

and yes those are 200B SX alloys on that 1200...

somewhere there is a pic of TD3 and it's 200B SX alloys..can only fit the rears on, fronts hit the struts and now I'm thinking if I strip the point off mine like on that 1200 they will look like delorean wheels...

the rims going on the front of my 120Y are off the sunny the struts are coming off...

donor car is a Febuary 1981 (square light) B310.. and I was told late model sunnies had beefier brakes - sadly I won't be using the H150 as getting it out from under the car is too hard...

really all I want out of the B310 strut swap is the ability to use my 200B SX Alloys on the front and get rid of "the o-rings of death"

ie 12" rims off the front of my car...

I have a July '74 120Y known as The Defect III, that I'm thinking I'd like to get back on the road....

even if it doesn't make it back on the road and stays a farm hack, I need to get better front end stuff on it...

I have a very rusty late model Sunny (B310) struts aree okay I think, but it'll need new balljoints and tierod ends

is the entire sunny front end okay for use in Western Australia,or is it gonna be too wide, or is it wheel offset changes I'm getting confused with?

car will be having 200B SX alloy rims going on the front of it like it has on the back... though I know the 175/75 R14's will have to come off the back probably replace them with 175/60 R14's

also what aftermarket seats fit the 120Y/B210 seat rails and still work with seatbelts? have a pair of front seats from that same sunny... would like something with a fixed back so I sit up more than I do with the stock 120Y seats...

are said brackets for the early or late aussie sedan? have a set of 200b SX alloys I want o put on the front of my 120Y and they hit the strut, or is better to go B310 sunny/A10 stanza? as I know the alloys came off a late model B310

L16 I could do, was gonna stick with an A12, as licencing would be cheaper as I don't have a licence - don't have one as I have autism mind you I'm a lot more aware than I was last time I tried to go for it, mind you there are a lot more morons out on the road too...

had planned on going L18 in my 120Y sedan (why it has a BW 68 and NOT the H145) but never been able to find a good L18

but now I want to get it rebuilt for the road, L18 is too much for a 120Y... seems that in WA a 120Y with a L18 is too much power to weight wise, but a PB210 is allowed a L20B... I'm curious if the PB210 shells are reinforced in a way that the 120Y shells aren't... or are they all like the same like 1970's ford falcon hardtops?

only mentioned the LS motors because I rememeber someone saying that LS engines are lighter than a L series four cylinder...

actually curious to see a pic of a LS in a 1200/120Y now :-p

one conversion that would be awesome would be LS1-LS9 into a Datsun 1200 or 120Y...

Nissan engines are cool, but a LS could be a lot of fun too...

LS9 though.... not sure... 638 horsepower would be insane...

prefer to stick with mechanical options that need the minimal amount of cutting, that being said LS9 into a 1200 would have a triangulated four link...

update on TD3 redid the panel gaps on the two back doors, panel gaps are much better and due to getting pliers oput on the drip rails, apart from a dolly and a slide hammer, car is a LOT better than I'd remembered... NO need for a roof skin change, miniml rust behind the back wheels, I *DO* deed to redo the boot floor (debating having the spare tyre well reinstated or going for a flat boot floor...

hell even thought I was up for 2 guards, but I can deal with a repro LHF and a patch panel on the RHF one, bonnet has a rather large rust hole at the right front of it though...

plan is to go tho that dark green metallic as seen on VE holden commodores...

after that.. getting it REGISTERED!

rust up near the windscreen under the guards is a VERY common problem... already retired my Martch'77 120Y four door farm hack due to that problem...

I want to get my July '74 120Y restored and made roadworthy, but I have High Fucntioning autisim and I don't have a drivers licence...

if you do a search for "The Defect III" you can find it on the forums, I even have a video of it on youtube...

was rebuilt from a shell that that the odo was stuck at 70,025 Km on, hell the car still has the paper tag on the steering box (paper fill tag)from the factory...

bnut it's NOT stock engine was seized and was an auto, now is still A12 powered but has a F4W60L out of an A14/A15 powered sunny in it, and I replaced the original H145 with the Borg Warner 68 out of the Defect (original 120Y)

REALLY need another rebuild of it do I can get rid of the crappy dry rotted 12" rims for safer 14" rims...

my car's better than yours on the bottom, however it needs a new roof skin as it got picked up by a front end loader and crumpled up the drip rails it also has rust issues on the passenger side up near the windscreen...

L14-L20B were offered in the 120Y (B210), they were a separate chassis code...

PB210/KPB210 (coupe version)has a few unique parts

Bonnet,Grille, front bumper, and apron and the lights under the front bumper, are different JDM PB210's had different front mudguards (same basic pressing but different indicators) PP210 sedans have VERY different taillights, KPB210 (sunny Excellent coupes have three round lights a side, giving them the nickname Rocket Sunny PB210s and KPB210's also have a ROUND guage dashboard, sadly PB210/KPB210's were only made in RHD...

PB210's were sold as Nissan Sunny Excellents and while use the basic 120Y shell, almost everything fitted to the shell are radically different and the reason 120Y's look ungainly on their 12" rims is I belive the PB210 came out first and the 120Y was developed off that...