well done. . . . .

The colour I wanted is on the V8supercar Volvos.

It's called Polstar blue which is there corporate racing blue.

I contacted the V8supercar team and they told me that
Polstar blue is not available to anyone as it does not actually exist.

They gave me the VIN number of a S60 Volvo painted in the
corporate colour.

When on a race car it's Polstar Blue.
When on a road car it's Rebel Blue.

The British have "British Racing Green"

It turns out Rebel Blue is actually "French Racing Blue"

Wonder if the Swedish flags blue is
Polstar, Rebel or French Racing Blue?


So what next?

Motor/gear box is back in.

Tail shaft. . . . . .

The gearbox output is flanged (no movement there).

The Diff input is flanged and the diff center
is fixed to the body. (no movement there)

No movement means universal joints are unsuitable
on at least one end of the tail shaft.

So why have any?

CV joints at both ends of the tail shaft is the way
to go as they are a lot stronger than Universal joints.

Strange thing is that the tail shaft "floats".
I can move it about 10mm forward/backward between
the flanges.

Cheers

Geoff

Attach file:

---

  Motor in .jpg (160.61 KB)


  tail shaft.jpg (115.97 KB)

Thanks David.

Has any one picked where I copied the colour from ?

It's road car name is Rebel Blue.

Any guesses as to the other name and who the manufacturer is ???

Time to bolt on the panels.

The doors were fitted, but removed again to improve access for in cabin fit out.

Also fitted the strut tower brace. More of MADDAT's stuff,
and the Grill and Aluminium "head lights".

Attach file:

---

  strut brace .jpg (152.61 KB)


  panel fitted 1 .jpg (146.34 KB)


  panel fitted 2 .jpg (158.39 KB)


  panel fitted 3 .jpg (139.26 KB)

Not to mention the Ferry ride time and expense to ad to your trip.

Howdy,

My 2 cents worth.

Relocating the battery to the boot is a cool idea.

Things to remember:

Standard lead acid batteries give off Hydrogen gas when being
charged, so they are a fire hazard if placed in a non-vented
confined space.

I = V/R (Current = Volts divided by Resistance)

All cables have resistance, the longer the cable the higher
the resistance.

The bigger the diameter of the conductor in the cable,
the lower the resistance per metre will be.

So I would recommend 50mm squared cable from the battery positive to the starter motor solenoid.

50mm squared cable from the battery negative to the body of the car as close to the battery as possible.
The cars Body will be of lower resistance than running an other cable
because of the cross sectional area of the Metal in the body.

50mm squared cable from the motor block to the Body of the car as short as possible.

For modern engines it is also very important the ECU is earthed well to the body.

The positive feed to the ECU should also be large-ish
(6mm squared) to minimise volt drop to the ECU during engine
cranking.

All connection to the body need to be on bare metal as paint
is an insulator and will increase the joints resistance.
So carefully drill your mounting hole in the body,
then remove the paint around the hole so the cable lug attaches
to bare metal as you want the electrical current to travel through the lug and not the bolt.
then once attached, paint over the lug, bolt and body.

Just so you know,
I've been in the Electrical game both Commercial and Automotive
for the last 35 years and my cars all work well.

Cheers,

Geoff

ps. sealed gel batteries are a good idea and are safer as they do not need venting and will not spill in the event of a roll over . . .
but they will not take as much abuse, eg. long periods of cranking or being left discharged as a standard lead/acid battery will.

The fibreglass door skins are very light, my guess would
be less than half that of the steel door.

The drivers door is now very flexible and will twist if
grabbed in the wrong spot.

I told the fiberglass guy the bits were going onto a race
car so he made them thin.

The door skins are made from what looks like woven cloth,
where the boot skin looks like normal glass matt.

So now it all fits (or so I thought) it's of to the
paint shop again.

Attach file:

---

  panel painted 1 .jpg (150.98 KB)


  panel painted 2 .jpg (134.76 KB)


  panel painted 3 .jpg (126.76 KB)

Fuel today, the 22/03/2016 in South Australia was $1.29 Au/litre

or $3.82 Us/gallon

Last week it was $3.14 Us/Gallon

HOW can they justify such an increase in a week ? ? ?

Six weeks ago it was 0.99 Au/litre
(lowest price in about 2 years)
or $2.93 Us/Gallon.

The door skins are folded over the frames and brased in 6 places.
No spot welds.

The skins folded off the frames quite easily and the brase welds
were split with a cold chisel and filed clean.

The fiberglass skins were then "glued" to the frames using panel sealant
and held in place with cloth begs until dry.

All the glass panels were fitted and trimmed to size before going out for paint

Attach file:

---

  door fit 1 .jpg (115.72 KB)


  door fit 2 .jpg (137.92 KB)


  panel fit 1 .jpg (118.68 KB)


  panel fit 2 .jpg (63.51 KB)


  panel fit 3 .jpg (137.19 KB)


  panel fit 4 .jpg (97.29 KB)


  panel fit 5 .jpg (130.27 KB)

The doors are going to get fiberglass skins.
there is not much left once the skin is gone
and they have been modified to clear the
safety cage.

Attach file:

---

  door fit 4 .jpg (135.77 KB)


  door fit 6 .jpg (111.63 KB)

The price of petrol in Adelaide (South Australia) has been up / down a lot in the last coupe of weeks.

So I was wondering what are people around the world paying for Fuel?

If we use the America dollar and US gallon as the standard
we can compare who is paying the most and least.

3.88 litres in an American Gallon

So today 19/03/2016 in Adelaide standard 95 octane petrol Is $1.06 per litre.

Exchange rate today is $1 Us Dollar = $1.31 Au

So I payed $3.14 Us per Gallon

What did you pay?????????

Cheers
Geoff