hi DD,

As per the picture, do I need a ballast resistor at the red X or the blue X? I see the blue X has one labelled as optional, so I can reuse a spare I have here at the red X instead? (it's not currently in use due to having internally regulated alternator)



This is the ballast I have spare:

Thanks. I went back to basics and re-installed the distributor and it seems to be timed correctly (although on installation the rotor definitely looked advanced a couple of degrees rather than pointing directly to #1).

I used that kit as pictured DD however I did not use a ballast? My extractors have torn at a weld so I can't hear if the engine is running OK, will have to fix that and report back.

Making aftermarket rails is not that hard but very time consuming. I have fitted aftermarket seats into my 1000. The biggest issue was finding a seat of appropriate width so it does not interfere with the door jamb and b pillar area.

Most seats will have a adjustable rail that is welded or bolted to the base of the seat, this needs to be removed and likely can be thrown away as it won't be even close to datsun size.

Measure the distances between seat bolt holes in the car and weld together some flat bar steel into a frame to bolt into the car as your new custom rail. Then the seat can be bolted to this custom rail.

I used this r31 guide as a bit of help the first time I had done it. I have done it in two different nissan/datsuns now with good success:
https://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=108649.0

Leads in correct order. I'm not sure what type of ignition- Ebay type with Magnet under rotor and red trigger. Could be installed in wrong spot? I do not have a timing light I was hoping it would just come out fine haha. I may have to get one.

Rallytwit when you say off one tooth, you are talking about removing the dizzy completely? As I had not removed it.

I had checked the valves for which stroke and made sure 1 and 4 were in the right spot for the rotor/crank marks before I installed engine. However perhaps owners had played with dizzy or pulled it out. Having said that the housing points to front of car I tried rotation but made it worse. I haven't pulled whole dizzy yet as was worried I would mess it up further.

Thanks all for help

I cannot get spark from my old points condenser system, so I put in an electronic conversion. I placed the plastic (magnet?) Under the rotor. Distributor pointing to front of car. Number one and four line up with crank pulley. It has consistent spark, checked by pulling the lead, but will barely run, only loudly and very rough. Am I missing anything for the timing? I see the wiki says to line it up but I'm not sure I understand.

Thanks all. I went to supercheap and they had a lot of different hoses on the shelf. I used a 5L VS commodore heater hose, which when cut in two replaces BOTH heater hoses for the price of one. The bottom is the new hose and the top is my old hoses:



Part number:

Thanks dd. I would give that hose "27186" a try but I definitely need the 90 degree on the end as the 1000 heater outlet is very tight and high inside the cabin. Might go down to the parts store and pick a random one out.

I had figured the breather hose wasn't suitable for coolant as it doesn't have the reinforcing thread built in:

Datsun 1000 running an a12 late model. The heater hose at rear of head is split, what would I use as replacement? Looks like I was actually using an air cleaner hose all this time. Heater hoses suiting datto 1200 and 120y don't seem to have the right bends in them. See picture below, my hose has a 90 degree turn on one end and a 180 degree turn on the other, slightly offset. Where can I get a coolant suitable one like this?

I just read on an old post that the box takes 250mL. If this is the case, a big 100mL syringe with a bit of vinyl tube jammed on the end could easily suck it all out.

Thanks Nismo I had a look on ego courier, it's around $300 to send up here on a skid so I would need something closer.