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Re: crashed my coupe, parts review
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Dylan - that's roughly what I found - 'one' bolt hole would sorta line up but then no others. but when I laid the old rad against it, they were all out somewhat. Based on the semi randomness of it I'm almost wondering if they were drilled by hand and marked out real rough, or what the heck was going on. No way they were drilled to suit. But all in all I'm not too fussed.

Maybe if nothing else this will get me to get organised and start work to respray it, maybe I'll get a set of front guards and a bonnet and paint them, then a pair of doors (I've got enough spares) then do the main body or something. I dunno.....

Mik - I feel a bit like Marcellus Wallace 'I'm pretty f-in far from ok' or whatever his line is in pulp fiction. I didn't get physically hurt badly or anything, but I hurt my pride and joy, and on some level that stings a lot more.

Andy - sorry mate I thought I sent a pm a while back - knowing me I typed it up and forget to click the post/send button or something!

Graham I totally forgot to get in touch about the crank too! I'll get some pics of the relevant gear on the weekend. If you don't hear from me either here or pm/email, remind me, I've done some insane work hours lately and it all becomes a bit hazy by the weekend, but if I'm prodded enough I'll get around to it!!

Posted on: 2016/7/26 12:38
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Re: Wtb struts
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early or late?

Posted on: 2016/7/26 12:22
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Re: Selling. Radiator, A15 pushrods, Ute reflectors, A12/A15 Extractors. Stock A15 exhaust top end.
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location?

Posted on: 2016/7/26 12:22
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Re: 63a a series
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ballpark on what you'd want for it if b310gx doesn't buy it?

Posted on: 2016/7/24 17:39
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Re: crashed my coupe, parts review
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Nick - the one thing I did ring around for that weekend was for a rad. Didn't think you'd have a stocky to be honest! Then I found that one on ebay, and with a little detective work, it turned out that their actual warehouse was literally within 2 minutes of work, so I managed to actually pick it up during work hours in the truck.

The grill I was holding off on, checked on ebay this weekend, and a cracked 2nd hand one was around $90 I then saw one on gumtree for $60 - and was only 5 minutes from where I live so I thought it was 'fate' ha ha - ended up talking to the bloke there and got a pair of em (pick the other one up tomorrow) for $100, which I'm happy with. It's the repro ones - I think out of taiwan. No badge, but the badge on the original is like new, so I'm good to go.

Posted on: 2016/7/24 17:38
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crashed my coupe, parts review
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So I managed to run into the back of a jeep patriot the other morning. Damage to him - small dent on bumper, turned into $1500 repair bill because bits behind it were damaged (oh well, my fault, just the way it goes....)

damage to my car - the grill, bonnet, front right guard and right headlight. Then I went to open the door to get out and talk to the guy in front and trhge guard was pushed back and it hooked the door, so I had to force the door open, now front section of door is creased. Steering wheel (aftermarket dodgy one with thin alloy spokes) was already cracked slightly around some of the bolts that attached it to the hub, the crash snapped it clean on one side, and I punched the dashboard.

Then, due to the core being literally 43 years old, the radiator decided to let go, not hit directly but I guess the jolt/jarring of the impact was the final straw.

Anyhoo, I have most of the parts to replace it, but had to get a few bits and pieces.

The radiator :

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-ROW-CORE ... 8ef7ab:g:12kAAOSwvUlWsGBq

OK, be well aware, it does 'work' better than a stock one, bigger capactity, etc. And affordable enough. BUT it doesn't fit properly. None of the bolt holes lined up. Needed the car back on teh road, so bit the bullet and lined up the old rad against it and marked out and drilled accordingly. STill wouldn't fit right - because the bottom tank hits the vertical support panel before the radiator surround/flange touches the support panel. So you need to space it back with washers by about 5-10mm and run longer bolts. It also sits a little higher relative to the original but it clears the bonnet just fine. All in all I'm happy with it, but it isn't a 'bolt in' as is affair.

The steering wheel. The only reason I go with an aftermarket wheel is that I have long legs (I'm not a giant, but I have had to mod the seat rails to put the seat back far enough. I 'can' just barely fit and drive the car with a std seat but I have trouble shifting gears with clearance for my knees between the steering wheel and the gear lever.

Anyhoo, so a smaller diameter wheel is a good thing, even a few cm. The problem is by the time I relocated the seat far back enough for leg room, was that the steering wheel was slightly further forward than was perfectly comfortable.

Ended up with this one

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1615160110 ... geName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thicker spokes and more meat around the bolt holes so it won't crack like the previous one. And it has a dish so that it relocates hand position about 4-5cm rearward and is thus more comfortable. Also doesn't flex (previous one did even before cracks started) if you lean on it, Very very happy with this one. Horn button has two tangs for +ve wire and earth but also has an earth that hits the adapter hub/earths out that way. Actual tangs need to be bent downward to clear everything, but once that is done, it attaches easily and I'm very happy with it.

Used the adapter from the previous wheel. I think it was this one

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-120 ... m:m5zDKKt4jfEc4jbTtXb21BQ

but can't remember for sure as I got it literally years and years ago.

Managed to get a new grill from gumtree for $50 (technically 2 for $100) so happy about that too!

Not happy I crashed of course, but all in all, car is still on the road and repairs are proceeding, and it's not a write off or even close, so feeling pretty fortunate.

Was saving up for a new steering box prior to this hiccup, oh well, start from scratch on that one I guess.

Posted on: 2016/7/24 1:05

Edited by jmac on 2016/7/24 17:32:40
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Re: Volvo B18 or B20 engine swap
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I worked on volvos as an apprentice back in the late 80s. those motors are seriously well put together, and if you are so inclined, will tolerate a lot of boost ( asw lonbg as you don't run into detonation of course, no motor will tolerate that for long) - bore walls are good and thick and the motor in general is sturdy. Not just long lived in std form but reliable in upgraded form. They aren't light, and are a slant motor too (if it's the one I'm thinking of) and still tallish. Not sure how you'd go on hood clearance.

I think one of the things I learned from them in general and at least part of their reliability is that the owners tended to get them serviced regularly, and it'a hardly a state secret that regular consistent oil changes and oil/air filter changes will maximise the life of ANY engine.

As much as I have positive things to say about volvo 4s of this era (avoid the PRV v6 engine they are almost the antithesis of the volvo 4s btw) personally I'd go the nissan L series 4s in a heartbeat if a boosted a15 wasn't an option. If for no other reason that it's a known quantity as far as ease of fitment, and almost certainly lighter, which is a huge deal for our cars and why they are so good to drive. the other thing is that I don't know of too many people here that would legit be able to put 1 million km on their datsun. My coupe is 43 years old and only up to around 80,000 :) (genuine, since I bought it off an old friend's mother who had it from new)

Posted on: 2016/7/23 15:24
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Re: L16 ex valves
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It'll also pay dividends to talk to whoever is porting the head. When they take into account the size of the engine, the rpm range/power levels and what they are going to be doing porting wise, it will ultimately determine ideal valve sizes, and if they have experience with this head (and hopefully they do) they'll also take into account and bore/valve shrouding/relieving issues and make the valve size choice and any clearancing work requirements to ensure it all works harmoniously. The best head porters will either have the runs on the board to know the score, or will flow test with a 'dummy' cylinder of your bore size under the head in the same offset/alignment as the datsun bore would be in real life. This is critical to flow testing (if you want to see that at its 'worst' try the old holden 6, the valves are centred front to back, but the valves are closer to one side of the bore left to right than the other, and the flow almost has to do a 180 (well not quite) turn to go back and then down in to the cylinder, and flow testing without accounting for it is a sure path to inflated results that are never matched if the engine is ever put on a dyno)

As a very very generalised commment about headwork and cam choice, more often than not less is more. if it isn't a full on race engine, go a little conservative, and you'll almost always kick goals with a broader and stronger midrange over peak hp in general. It's even more important on a streeter.

Posted on: 2016/5/27 15:02
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Re: E--supercharger
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I agree the battery CAN be recharged at cruise, so that AT BEST relegates the idea to drag racing, or the occasional/emergency overtaking manouever. It'd also be interesting to see that dyno graph if the motors were run for more than say, 15-20 seconds (guesstimate admittedly, and I know sikyne is absolutely 100% integrity, the graphs and data are legit, no argument or aspersions there) of the dyno pull, as wiring starts to heat up and battery drains and all the rest. the power will almost certainly drop off. If the application doesn't require it then that's no issue whatsoever, but even with some very fast cars I've had over teh years, i've (and obviously this means I'm admitting to driving illegally and I don't endorse it nor am I proud of it, but it is what it is) run cars at full throttle for approaching a minute, and then with a short term let off, back on the throttle and so on. If 'that' is what the app requires, belt or exhaust gas driven is still going to destroy it.

THe McCulloch/Paxton blowers seen on studebakers and also available as kits in the 50s or thereabouts used a fairly primitive compressor wheel/housing design to be sure, but they also had a variable drive. It wasn't adequately reliable when pushed beyond stock/intended applications/boost levels but nonetheless showed promise, and I wonder if a modern take on it might have some potential.

Obviously stuff like lysholm compressors absolutely are a considerable cut above a rootes type but that in and of itself is sort of secondary to the drive method imo. don't get me wrong, I think it has application, particularly in some sort of hybrid/combination situation where it can be used to create boost off idle or similar, but there's still usefullness in the relative simplicity and know quantity of engine or exhaust gas drive.

Posted on: 2016/5/27 14:52
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Re: WTB- a15 crank
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Any chance you'd have an a14 crank you'd trade for it? If so I'd be interested, if not, I've only got complete a15 blocks (might need an a14 crank for a rally car project hence the offer)

Posted on: 2016/4/17 7:55
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