you changed elevation 1600 feet in 129 miles and still got 44mpg with an undajusted carburetor. You just killed a Prius, you should pat yourself on the back!!!

What part of MT are you in, once lived there before.

I hate to say it but I'd say in the #2 cylinder you need rings. Might get lucky and it be just a bunch of seized oil control rings though. If so, will have good compression and smoke like a freight train. Normally if it smokes more at idle, on startup and the like, then you need valve stems seals. When it smokes with rpm, typically its rings.

Try this, use synthetic oil as it typically burns nearly clear, plus the synthetic properties will break loose the oil rings if seized.

On the problem with the power staying on with the switch off, I would go after the ignition switch itself as something might be amiss inside. It won't explain the horn/headlight problem, but that problem could be related to alarm wiring.

The KA24 is based pretty closely to the NAPS-Z motor, but it sure doesn't seem to be based on the things that would make a swap any easier. The motor should be pretty much the exact same length, but since it is a snout mounted oil pump that sure changes some things. If you were pretty happy with the mounts you used on the NAPS-Z you probably can go off of those and build them off car in order to fit them to the motor you have. Here is a link to a thread I used to do my swap mounts. It is a little bit of a read down on the page to get to the info, but it works pretty decent especially if you don't want to start from scratch.

http://720world.com/forum/topics/2016 ... ic%3A2329&page=7#comments

I followed the steps like I said on My 720 4x4 and put in a KA24E in the place of the Z22 that it had. After I got the mounts made up, I assembled the motor and dropped it in. No drama or need to re-make anything. Hope it helps.

Also the S chassis cars use a serpentine style pulley while the trucks use a V-belt setup. Now since the KA24DE in the D22 uses v-belts and uses the distributor drive spindle driven oil pump and not the crank snout driven oil pump, I'm not sure on compatibility. Not sure if it would work. I have several balancers that go to the "truck" and single cam style front cover, so I could compare them to the balancer you have. Might be easier to go with a multi-v belt balancer you already have though.

On mine I started with and AutoBox car and when I put the Manual pedals in, not only was the brake pedal too close to the accelerator pedal, but the clutch and brake felt too close as well. I took my auto pedal, cut it down to fit the manual pedal pad and bent the clutch pedal in a vise to move it out and give enough space for my feet. The result is as shown in the picture below




The only additional thing I want to do is put a stopper on the wheel well where the pedal arm hits so when the carpet goes in it doesn't cut up the carpet. It has plenty of travel so I'm not worried about that, but a rubber stopper will come in handy form me. There was really no way around this though, as the bend in the auto pedal put the auto pedal with manual pad about half an inch away from the clutch pedal, so I had to bend it over.

DD all the truck KA motors are rear sump. All S13 and S14 chassis cars are front sump. D21 and D22 trucks cannot have front sump pans as the steering linkage would interfere. Refer to Datzenmike on Ratsun for further clarification.

dd - My latches were painted as well and this is on a '72 coupe. I thought it strange to have them painted and thought it was just done when the car was resprayed after the accident in '78. Now it would appear they have been painted all along.

So in the world of updates, I finally drove the 1200 after it has sat for over 3 1/2 years. I can't believe how awesome it feels to drive it again!

I made sure I got some pictures up. First is the CA18DE installed and wired




Next is the interior. In the Left hand drive cars with the automatic transmission tunnel, the accelerator pedal sits closer than the column than the maual trans model. To offset this the auto brake pedal scoots over to the left a bit too. I used a stock clutch pedal with a little kink, and cut the auto pedal so I could fit the pad on it and that spaced them apart enough to comfortably shift with my big feet. Also pictured are my aftermarket electronic gauges and my SAFC-2 that I used for the AFM signal conversion and the cool gauges it has.










I also assembled the front body panels so now body work can be wrapped up







Definitely moving right along now. Again, I thank you guys a thousand times for all the help, especially since this car is so rare here in the US. I just can't say thank you enough.

Love the quarter panel and how straight it came out. Nice workshop too.

As for the 520; the wagon is plenty rare. It should have a J13 motor in it if I remember right.

So I got some interior spots painted and decided that since the rest is in primer to go ahead and get the car running before finishing the paint and body. So yesterday I got the dash and wiring laid out, heater hoses connected and today I got the harness all plugged up and was able to fire the CA18DE I put in. So excited! Will take pics of how I ran the harness and where I put the computer. Tomorrow though, ugh...