Thank you for the quick replies, I am on my way to Lynwood.

I am in the North West area of the USA, Does any body have a donor car that I could buy a piece of? I need the spare tire area (sheet metal) for a 78 B210 HB, this would be the metal area that houses the spare tire (indentation) and maybee an inch surrounding. I am finishing up the restoration and this area has to much rust to save on mine. The rest of the body is in excellent shape.

A basic tuneup is not always the answer on a 33 year old car, which it sounds as if it has not been cared for properly. Not everyone understands basic car mechanics and it cannot be explained to them by reading a manual which was written in technical terms for a person with a fair bit of knowledge. I thought that this and all other forums were designed to help out the people that need to get along in life without being treated like a moron or a drag on our time. Back to your "77" you can fiddle with all of the adjusting screws but it won't cure the problem of why it went from runnig fair to poor, no one went under the hood and adjusted them while you were not looking, you have to find the source of what caused that change. This brings me back to the earlier posts if you would like to read over them again. I hope you are able to solve your Datsun issues, as for myself I would be glad to respond to any future posts you may have.

Sounds like a personal problem, but it actually is a problem with my 78 B210. The area of my car around the diff is coated with oil. So I am about to change the pinion seal, but the car also seams to have a off sounding growl and a slight vibration at speeds above 40 mph. Could this be a bad pinion bearing? I thought a bad bearing would allow the shaft to vibrate and thus fry the seal. Any thoughts or better ideas?

I tend just to use inserts, but I clean my blades with a soapy mix about every other week in the rainy season. It does no good to clean a window when all of the crud is still on your blade, plus they last much longer when cared for in this fashion.

No, not permenantly, it displaces the leak with fluid rather than air, after the fluid is sucked in your air leak returns, in a franction of a second. But in that fraction of a second you can determine where your vacuum leaks are. If you use the carb off of a manual tranny, the jettings may be different and there are other ancillary parts that are different on the auto carb.

Take a better look at the carb as a whole. When your car is cold it is choked allowing vacuum leaks. After it has warmed and the choke is opened and idled down it can not tolerate bad vacuum leaks, thus it would stall at idle. I would be suspect of your vacuum hoses and or a faulty carb unit. Try spraying carb cleaner at your carb and vacuum hoses, if it causes your idle rpm to increase you found your problem. Do this when the engine is cold, to aid in it staying running as you perforn the test.

It would be easier to put in a new acc pump than to change carbs, and the pump is usually pretty inexpensive. Being that you have an automatic the carbs have a few different components attached to them. I would recommend rebuilding the one you have only if the shaft doesn't have two much play. The rebuild kit would have the acc punp in it, also. If you decide to rebuild your carb and if you have not done it before, it is not to hard, just be patient. Soak the carb parts in Berrymans for the full time alloted per thier instructions. Make a poster with numbers on it that correspond with the rebuild sheet, put parts on your poster board as you disasemble it on the proper numbers. At least that's what I do, it is to hard for me to remember where all those tiny parts belong. And most of all try to do it in a dust free enviroment and clean hands at all times

When I run into electrical plug differenses I tend to make a piggy tail to go from the original plug to the new unit plug. This is done for two reasons 1. Keeps the integrity of your original wiring. 2. If you don't care for the after market item you can switch back without cursing yourself for cutting the original wires.

Just my two cents.

Sounds like you are either being starved for fuel, watch float bowl site glass at 2500 or so RPM and make sure the fuel stays in the float for at least 1 min. Or your accelarator pump is malfunctioning, look down carb when not running and watch for steady stream of gas when the pedal is engaged which should continue streaming after the pedal has stopped moving for a moment. Or last but not least you have a major vacuum issue, spray carb cleaner around your vacuum lines and the base of the carb and listen for changes in engine sound.