I am on my way to pick-up a 78 B210 HB 5spd. It is in much better shape than the one I am currently restoring, hopefully this will save me time and money. I dropped off my dash pad and shifter boot at the upholstery shop this morning, they are being done in leather. I am negotiating right now with him to do a complete job of the 78 in leather (black) this is to include front and rear seats and all door panels.

The original carpet and heel pad in the 78 is immaculate and the pedals have little wear, showing 59,000 on the odometer of which I think may be original miles. It has the original paint, clean chrome bumpers and best of all no body damage. The only rust it does have (bottom corner near rear wheels) is minor.
Taking the perfect dash with Factory clock and Tachometer from mine will complete this Gem. I can't decide on original caps or changing over to 13" era correct alum wheels.

I have amassed all new suspension and braking components, I will install all of this before having it repainted the original Nissan color. I will post picks when I return on Thursday.

I will be parting out my 77 B210 HB with a very nice orig black interior and GFU (runs great) engine and 5spd (no problems) all good glass and removable body parts are clean and rust free., if anyone is interested in parts please pm me. I am located on the Olympic Peninsulla in Washington state. I will deliver parts to the NW area (Seattle and Portland) if enough $'s are made on purchase.

Sounds like good advice. I will leave it all connected. Some of the pre=shaped hoses have cracked, but I am sure I can figure that out. I will leave it fully stock.

Ignore my stupity but... to remove the A.B.V. I also have to remove the A.I.S.? If this is all done will it effect anything, other than a 33 year old emission system that I doubt makes a difference anyway?

Has anyone used the "Dash cap overlay" off of Ebay? If so how did it look? I only have two minor cracks, but I know my days are numbered. Besides the fact an imperfection in plane sight irritates me.

On the factory tach, please send me a pm for price.

The car run's rather well, the only problem I have is a high "cold" idle. The only emission item I am questioning is the ABV right now, the PCV, EGR and AIS system are functioning properly.

In the past I have had several carbed cars with out an AVB valve and never worried about an engine fire. Also, the Weber replacement does not use an ABV.
This made me wonder if I needed mine at all, and what it actually did for it. I noticed a lot of possibilities of vacuum leaks with the ABV. If I decide to keep it I will buy a new one and install new hoses.

I am triing to retain as close to stock vehicle as possible. I may just disconnect it for now untill I replace it with a new one.


I will let you know how it performs with out it.

My 77 GFU "special carb, plugs, electronic ignition, Cat converter. Doesn't have an air pump. It has an air pulse from on top of the thermo to the side of air cleaner.

Any thoughts on the anti-backfire valve?

Is it necessary? What problems would it cause to disconnect it? What problems arise from a mal-functioning ABV? Would it be worth putting a new one on?

All of the parts are getting tired, I am not sure which items are going to make my 77 run smooth thru idle to freeway.

Enough said.

I had read the tech section on brake-swaps earlier. I understand that the booster bolt pattern is not a match to my 77. Can I bolt the brake master cylinder from a 79+ directly to my 77 booster? I understand the bore diameter is different, but I fail to see how that would effect me, other than giving me more hydraulic pressure at the wheels.