I am looking at purchasing a Master cylinder from a 79 or newer 210. Will that directly bolt on to my 77 B210, without any modification?

I regret letting go of any of my cars. I spend way to much time and knuckle skin on them. I tend not to buy one unless I really desire the darn machine. I remember on one occasion I bought back a particulary nice expamle of a 78 B210 that I had completely restored - dash pad - seals - engine - brakes - the works. I was very happy to get my baby back and on the way home late at night in the backwoods of Washington cruising about 75 the oil sending unit line snapped and bled all of the oil out in a matter of a few moments. By the time I realized it my engine had seized. Not a good night.

I am not familiar with your FI setup, but I have had trouble with a batch firing system in the past. I like to put my injectors in a set of plastic water bottles and watch them fire and measure the appropriate fluid amounts retained. If your not firing on all the injectors, try swaping the injectors from the working into the non-working slots and see what happens.

I appreciate your help, I am doing a complete rebuild of the brake system and all of the suspension and steering componets. I want this to be a one time deal, done right the first time. I don't want to be stupid about the money, but like I said I want a worry free ride for years to come.

I am leaning towards the raybestos profesional grade brake components and moog suspension and steering with KYB for shocks and struts.

Any arguments about the aforementioned?

I don't plan on doing any racing or silly road pranks, but I plan on taking a trip across the USA in the spring.

I am about to rebuild the brake system on my "77" B210 HB. Notice that everybody and thier brother makes a caliper and piston for the car. Is there a consensus on which manucfacturer I should use?

I noticed that the raybestos professional grade friction ready loaded caliper is different in appearance.

Have you thought of a spray on bedliner (Herculon?), I hear if you rough up the surface it will take real well and become quite durable. This would be an easy diy with a minimal expense. Just food for thought - I havn't tried it.

Bumpers, I thought you all might like to know. I tested my temp gauge directly to the bat and ground and it was working perfect. So I inspected the round plug on the back of the gauge set and found that pin #1 (the one that is directly to the right of the pin that is pointed at by the center of the plug) at least it is a solid green wire that leads to a relay that is secured to the kick panel (the upper one on the drivers side). I unplugged it and cleaned it and ta da the problem was solved. It was not the instrument VR at all!

I found that the "Instrument panel voltage regulator" is incorporated into the temp gauge on the "77" B210 (found this in the 1200 forum). I tried to file the VR points and I cleaned the contact points of where the temp gauge attaches to the cluster to no avail. Does any body have an idea of what else I might try to restore my gauges?

If no thoughts, does any one have a spare? I really could get use to knowing how much fuel I have and the proper temp of the eng.

I wouldn't mind an after market temp guage but how would I go about putting in a fuel gauge? Is there a certain ohm requirment that I can match up at my local parts store?

I have a "77" B210 and I am in need of a good working temp gauge or whole cluster The "instrument panel voltage regulator" is incorporated into the temp gauge and mine died. Located in Sequim, WA - just west of Seattle. Nevermind problem is fixed.

I was reading in the "A new A-series" about using molly grease with an oil stabalizer, is this worth the trouble or is there an over the counter comparative that will allow my wheels to spin easily, I like the idea of no brakes touching also, do I just need to clean my calipers and put in an extra spring?