Yeah thanks boys, thats what I was thinking. Or, I could just use the RingR and a w50 or w55 and be done with it.

Hey D, loving the M16A.

Here goes nothing, this will probably confuse you rather than give you a picture of whats going on.

The symptom is a violent vibration through the whole car when you back off the power or when you cruise up to 80km and back off to just coast. It gets worse if you put the clutch in and roll at 80km and is also very bad coasting in 5th.

Through process of elimination and coountless hours off looking we have narrowed it down to the tail shaft. Had the car up on stands in gear and it just doesn't look right. With the car on all fours I have too much play up and down where the tail shaft slides over the output shaft on the box.

The shaft could be too short. So I un-bolt it from the diff and slide it in and the play becomes acceptable, I slide a touch further and it hits webbing on the box. I then notice witness marks on the very front yoke and the grease nipple has worn down where it has contacted the gearbox. Its hitting as the suspension travels and diff kicks up.

You really need to know what a sierra box is like. There is a large section for the gear selector the sits above the output shaft. So a good 6 or 8 inches of shaft along with the uni's spin under the gear selector.

So i'm thinking the shaft is too short and causing vibration. Sierra's run a remote transfer case with a short shaft thats bolts to a flange on the transfer case. The short shaft and box must have little clearnce as there is very minimal movement. Its not coping with normal suspenion travel.

Whats your thoughts?
Do you have any idea what I just posted? because I don't

Sorry to interupt, would the jimny box bolt up to a G13b. I have run into driveline problems like you wouldn't believe.

Sorry boys, still going with the vibration problem. I think its the tail shaft now.

I bought the rims in the picture i posted. I got 15" x 6 13p for the front and 23p for the rear. The offsets are perfect for the front but the rear could be better. Its a massive improvement and I reckon I could get away with it but im talking to the pannel beater getting some small flares for the rear.

Its getting painted very soon but im trying to sort out the vibration first. Ive been slack and will take some photo's of the wheels and try and get some video for you guys.

Go hard Matty. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

I have dealt with rares spares in Sydney (Parramatta Rd). Over the phone they told me certain things couldn't be done which obviously could be. When I went in there, it was a different story and they were extremly helpful. In the end I was happy with what they achived but it did come at a price. At the end of the day when they were the only people who could come up with a quality rear screen rubber for my kb10 I didn't mind paying.

I would also like to add that I have had the same issue's with a wheel company. Even though it's bull$hit, it's probaly a bit unfair to blame the company rather than the bloke who hates his job that answers the phone.

I tracked down a set of top and bottom ball joints (lets not start another thread about that). I got the rest of my stuff from peddars, bigger gas shocks for the rear and bigger front shocks but only oily's. I got nolathane rear shackel bushes and can comfirm they are the same as 1200.

The rest of my rubbers seem to be ok, I could do with a set of tie rod ends but don't have the cash atm. I have no issues with handling. I was actully a little impressed with leaf spring front end. Struts are over-rated.

Be careful Fenix_Longbow, the last thing you want to do is go ahead with a 15 to 20k build off the back of an engineer who has a poor interpratation of the guidelines. When I rang around for my car I found every engineer expected different things. The rate these guys come and go, by the time your finished the guy who told it could be done is likely to be gone.
Your build will be cool but something boarder line like a 4agze in a 1000 you need to be 100%. You can research your self on the rta website.


Have a look on page 3 in the notes, second point. Under the matrix.
guidelines for light vehicle modifications

Sorry, I have made a mistake and got things arse about. 4agze is what I was thinking. The rta rules in NSW say that you need to use the weight of the sedan version of the car in question. From memory the 4agze just missed out.

But 4age can be done for sure. Same as I said before though, get one from a sprinter so the manifold points in the right direction, thermostat housings are correct and possibly dizzy is in a different spot.

If its legal down there, put a 4agze in it. It would be insane. The extra weight of the engine wont matter when the supercharger is whining off its head.

I think it would work well. I wanted to get one out of a sprinter, already setup for rear wheel drive. You would be looking at a tunnel mod minimumn. Do it.