Thanks for the help! I'm going to be able to look into the wiring very closely in the next day or two-I'll post with the results!

Hi everyone.

It's been awhile since my last post, been busy buying a house and working on a "new" project!

It's a 1979 210 4 door sedan. Maybe not the prettiest of body styles, but it's growing on me. I'll have some pictures soon.

My question is-I've installed a factory tach, which plugged right into the wiring harness behind the dash-but no worky! Am I missing something? I can't seem to be able to find a wiring diagram for this this either.

Any and all help in this matter will be appreciated!

Hi guys!
I've been slack lately, but I do plan on driving down to the show. Probably be leaving early Saturday morning.
Hey Dave, are you gonna meet up with Bleach and the boys from last year?
Oh, does anyone have a good sedan rear bumper, or at least the license plate light? I want one!
-Donnie

Along with dodgeman's advise, also while you're at it, make sure the advance mechanism isn't siezed or sticking.
-Donnie

Hi.
Carbs can be frustrating little buggers when they're not working properly!
Did you re-install the spring under the accelerator pump when the carb was apart? Check that the linkage is not binding.
As far as the choke 1/2 on and it running fine, check and make sure there are no vaccum leaks(try propane or carb spray) with the engine running, squirt carb cleaner all around the base, all vaccum lines, and throttle shaft. If you hear a difference in the way it runs especialy if it smooths out, you've found your problem.
I had trouble with a stock Hitachi once that I chased for quite a while-turned out to be a worn bore in the upper housing where the power valve pintle moves in!
That created an internal leak which was a bugger!
Hope any of this can help.
-Donnie

The temp sensor in your a12 is beside the thermostat housing, right on the cylinder head,sticks out the right hand side, with one yellow wire on it. I'm pretty sure it's yellow anyway.
-Donnie

Oh hey- the block drain is below the intake and exhaust manifolds, about the middle of the block. There's lots of pics of engines out of the car on the site-may give a good visual.
-Donnie

Hey there. While I'm no cooling expert-here's my two-cents-worth.
First, make sure your belt is tight. Easy. Although it may soon be shot down, what I do is drill a very small hole in the body of the thermostat and orient the hole towards the top. I found this helpful in letting all the air out of the system as it's being filled with coolant. It's always worked for me-kind of a poor man's wiggle valve you see in expensive thermostats.
Make sure you've got your heater control fully over to the warm side-it opens the valve to the heater core and allows the coolant to circulate.
As far as the temperature going up with the engine off, that's normal on all engines. With the fan not turning, water pump not pumping, and no air rushing past the radiator, the engine will "heat soak". It will probably raise in temperature by 10-20 degrees before it starts cooling down. An electric fan with a thermostatic control helps with this. They won't shut off until the preset control reaches the highest setting.
180 doesn't sound too hot to me-really depends on climate. If you're in a hot climate it's probably normal to see that kind of temperature.
Hope this long-winded post helps!
-Donnie

It's good to see someone else brave enough to do this conversion! My sedan goes like hell too! Had it at the drags the other night-15.95@86mph sound good? 7100 RPM through the traps! Yours should be at least that fast too. Can't wait to see some more pics!
-Donnie

I was at the drags the other nite and there was a 510(1600) with a 350 chev in it running 10.8's. On the bottle it runs in the middle 9's!!! That car is awesome! He does drive it on the street, but it's a real bear! I'll see if I can get some pics. The engine fits nicely, but the car has been chopped up a fair bit to make everything fit(tube chassis, tubs in the rear, etc).
-Donnie