Quote:
Take the Toyota centers off for starters

I've been reading about exactly how the spring rates/weights affect the mechanical advance and how it behaves.

I grabbed my old distributor and found a marking on the cam assembly (that fits atop the weights) reading '12'. I assume this is the factory marking for the amount of mechanical advance its setup for, which means it will give me a total of 24 degrees mechanical advance.

Now after writing some simple things down on paper, I came up with this:

TUNERS SETUP (CURRENT):
-5 degrees initial advance
24 degrees mechanical advance
= 19 degrees total advance

FACTORY SETUP:
5 degrees initial advance
24 degrees mechanical advance
= 29 degrees total advance

Which means there's a total of 10 degrees of advance difference between the two setups.
Now there's no reason at all it shouldn't work the way the factory intended it too, I just think the advance curve doesn't quite work with my setup which means I need to start and play with the springs...

Yeah I thought that you might be going NA 2L for class restrictions or the like after I posted.

Check out this forum:
http://www.sr20forum.com

Do a quick search and there's plenty of info about converting SR20VE's to RWD.

There's also a member called 'DimeDave' who makes adapters for the FWD SR20VE to fit onto an L series box which may be of interest to you...
http://www.sr20forum.com/sr20ve-sr16v ... questions-rwd-sr20ve.html

My vote would be for a SR16VE, fantastic engine!
I was tossing up between it and the 4G92 MIVEC engine I eventually ended up buying.

I'd go the MIVEC engine as it's half the price, has the same power (+-1 or 2kw) but with more torque, bolt on the factory turbo manifolds etc from the 4G93 turbo and you can bolt up a RWD box to it.

But then you'd be going Mitsi instead of keeping a Nissan heart in it...

Taken from another thread:
Quote:
Having it hooked up to 'ported' or 'manifold' vacuum won't make any difference when it's WOT (no vacuum)... which is the only time when it pings badly (when set to 5 BTDC and vac advance connected to the carb port)

"vacuum delay thingies?"?

I've kept things as mechanically simple as possible (KISS never fails) so it's just a straight uninterrupted vacuum hose from the vacuum advance unit to either the manifold barb or carb port.

I mentioned in one of my threads that the guy who tuned my engine (who I'm currently not too impressed with) has had trouble setting the ignition timing. Ill try and explain the scenario as best as possible...

It's currently set up as follows:
The static ignition timing is set at 5 deg ATDC. The vacuum advance is plumbed directly into the inlet manifold. This gives me ignition timing of ~10 deg BTDC at idle. Apparently these were the only timings he could figure out so that it wouldn't ping. It runs fine, bit doughy down low, but revs out great.

Now I'm not happy leaving it like this because it's far from perfect so I had a play today. I plumbed the vac advance back into the carb and set the base timing to 5 deg BTDC as per factory spec. It runs perfectly fine ..right up until you give it a foot-full :(

From what I've gathered a high vacuum load (like WOT at really low speed) doesn't seem to affect it, no pinging. But as soon as the revs start to build it pings like crazy. I tried disconnecting the vac advance to see if I was right about it not being vac related and it helped a little bit but there's still a bigger problem.

My current theory is that the advance curve in my current distributor (from different weights(?)) won't work properly with the auto transmission. I have other things to check (like making sure I lined up the cam and crank sprockets in-line and cc'ing the head to check my C/R) but I'm pretty sure they're fine.

Your suggestions and advice are much appreciated!


ENGINE SPECS:
A14
Manual trans distributor with Pertronix Electronic Ignition module.
Weber 32/36
GT40 Coil
3 speed Automatic transmission

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Just to further add to this topic.. I have a question
Does the kickdown switch only depress when the pedal is right to the floor?
..or is there some travel in the switch mechanism so it activates a little before?

Reason I ask is I need to make a custom bracket for my installation and need to know where to place it