Anyone tried dragging a ute without the front anti-roll bar in. Does it make a difference to front lift on launch, and does it still feel stable further down the track. I've heard of people removing it on a drag cars to get more wheel sag upon launch, thus increasing weight transfer, any ideas?

Thanks Killer1200, would appreciate any photies, suggestions etc. I just got 2 new rear dampers (custom Bilstein adjustable) which look like bike shocks without the spring, going to test em this weekend. The US drag guys reckon hard as possible compression with slow rebound for the rear, so I'll start with those settings. I've also just found out that I should have started with the front end,according to US forums more important for changing the cars IC/weight transfer on launch. What makes this more challenging is that we only have unprepared tracks in our areas to drag on!

Can anyone shed some light on the correct damping for rear suspension - drag racing use only - using leaf springs and gas dampers.
I've seen mention of extremely hard compression damping and slow rebound; hard comp and hard rebound; soft comp and hard rebound. Obviously the setup will have to go harder everywhere for an unprepared track with less traction to give more tyre "bite", but what are the experiences of any of you forum memebrs that drag race. The pros seem to hold their cards very tight against the chest, and won't tell too much info.

Would the moderators kindly censor Dat383's posts before he goes too far and really offends someone, which could turn this PERFORMANCE FORUM into a gun battle! He's making biased, uninformed statements of a personal nature which only seem to reiterate his lack of mental capacity when dealing with other people (in this case total strangers). Furthermore, dat383 has this strange misconception that this thread IS ALL ABOUT HIM!

.....Ook saam.

Mmmm, seems like Dat383 is abit of a braggard folks, he's can't stick to the topic AND he has issues with his gene-pool!
YOU GO BOY!!

Why don't you guys give Sparky a break, everyone of you had to start somewhere - I'm sure that the 383 engined datto wasn't your first car buddy, nor your first attempt at building a fast car.
Do Datsun 1200's & 1400's suddenly not qualify as been vehicles that enthusuasts can hot up and pit against other similar engined vehicles? Or have I missed something here? If this is so, why don't we all cram 400 chev motors into our drives and forget about been enthusiasts...and this site, and forums, and start a new site called "take the easy way out" .com

Sounds like a problem I had after 6000rpm under higher boost - turned out to be 2 things: 1. too large a plug gap (running 0,6mm now with a MSD setup. 2. rotor phasing.
I know your engine doesn't run a dizzy, but check your crank angle sensor (trigger angle) and if you've set it up for rising or falling edge trigger, and the coil charge time. Mine also felt like the engine would lit a rev limiter.

All the panels from the south african bakkie fit the 1200, the roof has a slightly higher profile though, but the base still fits 100%, and they are dirt cheap straight from Nissan agents here; Somebody needs to start importing them to Aus, not so?
AND, NO, WE DO NOT HAVE LONG WHEEL BASE bakkies here - for the millionth time!

type in "bones ute" in the search block on homepage and you'll see some old pics of the bakkie, changed a few things since - Jazz fuel cell, light weight drag wheels, some aeromotive fuel supply goodies, MSD ignition....i'll try and put some newer pics up. I'm still thinking that the Aus rego authorities will die laughing when I ask them to street register it though!