haha looks like i might just be a sucker for buying buggered turbos then. What you said does make sense. Just make sure you buy a good turbo that spins freely i guess. Whats the most fuel pressure people have run on a needle and seat and what carb? As a budget approach running standard 7psi boost would there be a carb/ needle and seat cabable of holding 10psi fuel pressure negating the need for expensive rising rate regulators and fuel pumps/return line etc in a blow through design. If a new gasket kit is put through the carb and sufaces are flat they should seal ok with just a hat and lowish boost.

here is the method i dug up that baz said to use for the l headgaskets.

1:Head/block have to be totally clean, eg shiny metal. Tap all bolt holes and blow out, clean bolt threads and lubricate, dunk head/washer in oil.
2:Torque the head up in stages, 20,40,60ft/lb using correct sequense
3:Back all the bolts off untill loose using correct undo sequense.
4:Again 20,40,60ft/lb
5:With no water/coolant start and run until you can touch around no.2cyl on head with wet finger and get slight sizzle.
6:Let cool down and one by one undo each bolt till loose and then tighten it down in one smooth action to 60ft/lb.
7:Fill with coolant and your laughing

Since its backed off all the way there presumably to squish it first im hoping it will be ok now, its done near a 100o kms so dunno if i should risk it, might not seal properally, haha should chop rad support bar and weld it after

Yea satdy late arvo should be fine, give me a buzz satdy ill let you no. I think i might have a set of springs, cant remember ill look later. Good fun trying to get spring combo right took me 4 goes till i was happy!

The problem is that there is 4 headbolts that go through the cam towers on the right hand side when looking from the front of the motor eg waterpump. There is also 8 or 10mm bolt aswell. ill try dig up a pic showing what i mean

Yea some time on the weekend, i will be busy doing cam change but will make time.

so you reckon the headgasket would be ok doing that, wonder if it would be better draining the coolant, undoing all the headbolts in sequence, changing cam then tightening in sequence.

When do you want that front end?

You sure on that i had a t28 on a 1.5L et turbo that boosted to 19psi, 130fwkw, wasnt smokey and that too didnt spin over at idle, maybe its a bit to do with bush or roller bearings as well. Beware the 2nd hand turbos, i wont ever buy another unless ive seen it running fine. Bought way to many fukt ones of the net and importers, they can look fine, have minimal shaft play but still smokey because of the seals. The turbo on the 180b i had used to smoke a bit untill it warmed up then it was ok, still used to spit a bit of oil through the cooler. We cheated and put a tiny as restrictor in the line to stop it, cant be good though. My exa turbo used to smoke massivelly when the exhaust wasnt on from the dump pipe to exhaust, must have been the back pressure helping or something.

Unfortunatelly my head would be 10mm max from fire wall, i guess all i can do is try and drop the box x-member and undo mounts and jack the front of the motor, dunno how much clearance ive got with the dump pipe etc, its all too damn tight in there! Yea it looks like it would hit rad and support pannel for sure as it is now. Thanks for the responses.

yea outside is very sooty black looks like the rest of the plugs except the middle. I will check the numbers i never thought of that I have to spare injectors im just gonna swap one over as i dont have long to get everything ready for the shop, cheers for the advice

i believe locking the dissy applies to both points and electronic systems, it involves welding the dissy so the timing is set at a fixed amount wether the car be at idle or full boost 6500rpm. This way your timing wont run away at full boost on you causing pinging and associated head gaskets and rings etc. Unfortunatelly i have never welded a dizzy the shop did mine as part of setting up the computer and tune, if someone had some pics that would be great.

With draw through i have found that the system works a lot better if the turbo is small enough that the impella wheel spins at idle, this way fuel dosnt tend to puddle in the compressor housing resulting in a rich stumble when you crack open the throttle after idling for a while. Also make sure the carby is verticle or slanding slightly down into the compressor inlet or fuel will puddle in the lowest point, mount the carby as close to the turbo as possible too. For a budget approach i reckon use the stocka inlet manifold make a flange for it and piping from compressor outlet to the flange were the original carby used to be. If you dont want to pay for a carbon seal a budget approach would be to remove the throttle from your carby and run a small throttle body mounted to your standard inlet manifold so there is no vaccum to suck out the oil from the seals, you cant run a choke either though. Might have to build a budget kit for my white sedan when i upgrade my turbo some day!

yea it has injection, maybe an injector is slightly blocked there second hand unchecked, i just find it wierd that its black as around the outside yet almost white in the middle. I will definatellly check my leads. Plugs are new ngk for et turbo, and its a fresh motor so shouldnt have any coolant leaking, scary thought!

I pulled out my plugs yesterday and no 1 was black around the outside but tan coloured in the middle, ive never seen a plug look like this before any ideas, i no i have poor spark. the other plugs were all black as. ill try get a photo too