haha yea this would be the 5th or 6th headgasket in the thing, a genuine $70 nissan one, im 90% sure that now ive modded the chambers and built a fresh lower comp bottem end as well as having head done/machined that it wont do it again, it no longer pings too! The thing is its a HUGE pain in the ass changing a head gasket in the beast, id rather keep the cam for whenever the head has to come off than changing everything again just to fit a cam. Anyone changed an l series cam and not the headgasket at the same time?

A turbo 180b i built a few years back,

rb20det turbo $450
Supra cooler plus piping $250
Falcon webber, adapter and gas hat $100
2nd hand vl fuel pump and r/r regulator $120
Cheapo boost gauge $30
Cheapo pod filter $30
Misc hosing etc $100

Car used standard dump pipe into standard exhaust, original manifold modded to suit t3 flange, stock motor and inlet manifold, stock clutch and drive train.
For just over $1000 bucks it went significantly harder on stock 7psi


Also it dosnt count because its a mini but same principles, my first car.

Toyota ct12 turbo $140
Boost gauge (tyre pressure gauge) $20
Misc piping and hosing $100

Car used suck through setup with original su carby, standard everything, already had 2" exhaust. Used a su carby lathed into a throttle body mounted after compressor outlet to avoid sucking oil out of turbo seals and the su in front of turbo had no butterfly or choke. Dodgy as custom manifolds made from my neighbours old fence scrap and me learning on an arc welder. Oil drain back into side valve cover as high mount turbo. Ran standard boost and was enough to pick the front up on boost and spin first just accelerating, i hope this enspires others to do some cheap turbo setups

Ive got a reground turbo spec cam from datsport lined up to install next weekend before i get a tune. Problem is i no there isnt enough room to slide it out so the cam bearings/holders (4) will have to be undone so i can just lift the cam out. However in doing this 4 head bolts will have to be undone, will it be ok to just retension them after or will this throw the gasket out of whack somehow? There would be only one headbolt in the middle holding that side down? Its a genuine nissan gasket by the way. Thanks

ooh ohh count me in!!!! As long as i dont brake my car drift practice 23rd june! And should get it back from tune by 15th at latest, i drop it in 8th. Keen to hear the details, cheers for organising these Adam, top job!

should fit, i fitted a 280zx 5spd into standard manual tunell with slight hammer mods and ground off mounts, these are similar to bluebird one i think

sounds good, those et pistons can take a beating, with a lower comp ratio from these dished pistons and chamber modds i reckon you could run 10psi+ again without pinging give it a go before dropping the boost you may be suprised

i reckon allow a bit more for the ecu, probably more like 1500 and at least another 500 for tune/ setting up. I no with my setup i had to buy a vl fuel pump $200, injectors (4) $100), regulator $100, the ecu and tune/fit up was nearing $2500 and that was a base model e6x haltech still single coil etc, throttle body $50, depending on your fabrication skills at least $1000 for manifolding/ dump pipe or do it yourself, intercooler and piping $300, then things you dont think of like clutch $800 (i went overboard first time round) etc. Stocko decomp motor will take a bit. Or the alternate suck/blow through for under a grand all up, depends what you want from the car i guess.

yea count me in too

This is the $100 kit, it dosnt have very much info but im guesing its a single output system.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView. ... eMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=

Also it quotes: This kit can be connected to conventional points or relecutor ignition systems

Is the relecutor refering to electronic ignition, will it work with my L20b series 2 electric ign dissy, im a bit lost

yea i heard there bigger than the 1200 sedan tanks at 30L, mine only gets me about 150kms, time for a tune!