well i got the rb for a steal! Just need to fork out for a tranny, why do these engines have such a bad rap? what are there reliability problems, powers not a problem ill be more than happy with near stock. they make more grunt than a ca or sr and have a better valve train than sr, sure they have a #### turbo holding them back but ive herd of internally stock rb20dets pulling well over 200kw at the rears with the right combos and tuning.

How many of you think its a sin to start chopping the firewall up? the only thing worrying me is making sure that nothing warps and adequate restrengthning.

Since the extra weight wont be directly over the front wheels unlike say a v6 or v8 im hoping it wont be too bad handling wise. i will try and get the rear 2 cyls behind the firewall.

Come on guys the rbs sound awsome isnt this reason enough? And theyd have to be one of the lightest l6s around?

just to be different i bought an RB20det package cheap to fit to the 1200, since its a straight six the firewall and trans tunnel will need MAJOR mods. Has anyone ever done this before, how did you tackle it?

From measurments i can tell that the donk will have to sit 200mm rearwards (more if possible to aid handling) of the firewall and will live under the dash.

From what i can gather ill have to mark the firewall, get an air hacksaw and cut round, tunnel will probably need removing at this stage. then ill have to mount the engine and box combo and fabricate the inner firewall/trans tunnel around everything.

I was thinking along the lines of making a section that is somehow removable to aid access to everything.

RB dosnt come with box, still unsure weather to go auto or manual, sure auto will be quicker but i love changing cogs.

Many of you will no doubt be thinking im wasting my time building a lead tipped arrow but i believe with a well thought out plan it wont be too bad and should run deep into 12s with small mods! The main motivation is the challenge, the sounds of an rb on fullboost/big revs and easy power.

I have a spare dead shell im going to cut up to get everything right before cutting up my pride and joy, so wish me luck! Any input welcome, by the way from internet sources the rb20det wieghs in at 200kg can anyone confirm?

Also my old l20b combo is up for sale now advertised here

After much thought im turning the datto into more of a drag car than streeter and picked up an RB20det package real cheap!

This means that the L20b and kit to fit it all to 1200 is up for sale.

Kit consists of Nissan L20b engine from series 2 bluey has webber and adapter (tuned), highly ported head, 280zx box and clutch, highly moddified 1200 crossmember and mounts, has been deeply scalloped and rewelded to mount engine as low as possible for clearance and handling. Has brand new bluey eng mounts and fabricated engine mounts. Comes with gearbox crossmember specially fabricated and g/box mounts (nolothane). Standard 1200 speedo cable fits too. Has modiffied 2l telstra radiator, Comes with shortened and balanced tailshaft done at repco balancing centre to suit borg warner h150 120y diff. I have had no problems with this diff, rate them VERY highly and i intend to use it behind the RB.
Kit was all made by me and took at least 150hrs to get right, all very proff. looking. Body needs no mods other than original g/box mounts ground off and new shifter hole!

The best bit is its all in the car now, running with rego so can test drive! Can also fit for a price.

Only problems with it are that the engine is low on compression (drives fine dosnt blow much smoke). Has new headgasket and valvestem seals. Also clutch master cyl sticks acassionally but im not parting with this as i need it for hyd clutch for RB.

Setup ran 16.7 before with small #### tyres and suspension, hoping for high 15s this sunday were im racing at AIR!

Also comes with spare G/BOX, clutch etc.

The price im asking is $1000 FIRM, NOT NEGOTIABLE, you wont find cheaper if at all!

Genuine enquirees can contact me (Will) on 0423 115 448 or home:(08) 8362 1185.

I live in SA, up prospect rd, adelaide. Will only sell in sa. wont seperate other than spares!

Im going to the next avent at AIR offstreet drags in sa on August 7th which is a sunday. I will be there in my l20b 1200 sedan, it would be great if a few more dattos could come down and make the day even better, there will also be 1000 and 500 dollars up for grabs in each class. Hope to see some of you there!

i have an a15 for sale in pieces, everything there minus head, suit rebiuld has water damaged bores, only after a $50 for it, only selling in sa.

talking from experience, the difference between 175 and 185 is very noticable with my car, also on a mates vp with 205s it chirpies big time into second with 225s there is nothing. Makes sense to me that the more tyre on the ground the more grip/friction? Braking also improves dramatically with wider tyres

a12 engine was recod approx 2yrs ago, good clutch, decompressed a15 head, custom manifold featuring steampipe construction, 12mm plate so wont warp, heatwrapped, very proffesional looking, took ages to make, T25g suit replacement or rebuild, currently in bits, 32/36 webber and adapter set up as suk thru, Sump with oil return, basically everything there, still needs some work i never had it boosting as turbo seals were totally stuffed! Must go, only selling in SA, currently located at prospect,

$300 ONO must go need cash for another L20b!

May swap for Lseries goodies?

My no is 0423115448 or post/pm

got hold of specs today, a fresh engine should be at 171psi min allowable is 128psi and no more than 10 psi differance between any cylinders, also still getting oil in the cooling system even with new head gasket so block or head must be cracked? Might try get another engine and freshin that up.

I cant believe the times you guys are getting, to think i was happy with a 16.7 lol it could go much better.

I was thinking about a cheap build plan and came up with the following, what do you guys think for a mild setup?

Fresh l20b with l18 head, ports opened and cleaned up like my other head, maybe a bit more compression no more than 10:1, 74 or 76 cam like jims car, twin sus and extractors (that will probably have to be custom built, anyone no of any bolt in jobbies for l series into 1200, from what car?)

Would i be unrealistic hoping for high 14s with this and a well setup car? If more flow in the intake will help i could make up custom injection manifold and use a map sensored delco from camira and get it retuned.

Jim i was wondering with that 76 cam you used did you have to change valve springs or any parts in the valve train. When did it start making power, what was your rev limit?

Hey jessie cheers for that bud, was hoping 205s would fit but 195s will do. Pm me about that 1k, what are your plans? Sounds good!

Thanks guys im definatelly motivated now!

well today at work i did a compression test on my engine and it appears to be a little bit ill

RESULTS

Dry

No1:110psi
No2:120psi
No3:125psi
No4:120psi

Wet

All cyls @ 155psi (strange but true?)

These tests were done with engine at operating temp and with no spark plugs in place, battery was cranking engine over fine.

From what i gather the rings must be worn, maybe no. 1 has a brocken ring or scoring etc

Does anyone have a book with the compression specs for a l20b series 2 engine, 9:1 comprsseion ratio i think?

I may have a rebiuld on the cards or find another engine, how much difference in performance do you guys think the above figures would give compared to a fresh engine

Thanks guys

ive got mine sitting way back, approx 10mm from head to firewall, to do this i had to modify the crossmember, i didnt lower mine at all to avoid any steering complications instead i cut the original one down. I cut 25mm i think out of the guts of it and welded a new plate in so it dips down allowing the sump to go lower in engine bay. I also added strengthening braces, good welding required here! With that mod done you will find things fall into place really well, its like the L was meant to be in there . I also had clearance issues with 120y swaybar and oil pump so made 10mm spacers to space it down. All in all with new mounts it should fit in well. I found that 180zx box fits in the manual tunnel with a series mounts ground off! Oh and one last thing dont expect to get the box off without engine and box coming out as one. I have to lower my engine and gearbox in almost verticle with front jacked up to get it all in snug, bitch to do but ive got motor out in down to 2 hrs. I found it easier to do the conversion with the engine and gearbox together as it is all a very tight fit. But all in all i TOTALLY recomend you put in the hard yards and do this conversion, you wont regret it and the first drive will make all the hard work worth it!