well after checking everything over after the drags i started it up and it blew heaps of smoke till it warmed up, head has new valve stem seals so must be rings, also when i rev it smoke comes out the breathers esp the one from the block
Will do a comp test tommorrow but maybe the motor isnt as good as i thought i could only go by no 2 and 3 cyls as 1 and 4 were at top dead and i wedged a block into the timing chain and cover so couldnt turn it over. I no it had 250 000 kms on the clock of the car it came out of, 2 and 3 didnt have much of a lip and no bad scorring etc.
On a better note i fitted a my new tacho today and can tell you there is no point reving above 4500 rpm, not much power after 4000rpm. Also have an exhaust leak to fix.
i talked to one of the guys in the no at my work about regrind cams and he says that they get more duration but not lift so maybe i should go for a billet jobbie.
Datto dave that is a better time than some of my first runs gotta be cheerin with that, well done. Was that with a open or locked diff?

i thought it was almost a square motor, 85, 86 i thought? A14 force, that would be great to see some comparisons! They sure surprise you for what they are. By flows do you mean extractors? never herd the term before sorry

i have fitted rims from the first shovel nose coronas, probably late 60s? Also have fiited various datto rims from 120y, bluebird, stanza, also early skyline r31 4 stud

Freak, its the torque i love most about the big l series, i have driven an a15 with cam, twin sus, extractors and good ign system, the two are worlds appart as far as torque goes esp low down, read massive second gear chirpies! But i see were you are coming from in terms of cost and ease etc.
RB20 what rims were these, what car were they from? Any one else no, my car is fairly low so need perfect offset rims!
Yer the more i think about it i think its the cam holding my power back, it is usless reving above 4500rpm now. Also need more traction and softer rear end!
Geez 13.9 is very very impressive! Does anyone no if it would be worth my while getting twin sus? Would i gain much? Deffinatelly cant affort twin webbers or inj yet!
Also for the cam im thinking of getting a regrind on the stocker at repco balancing centre, anyone got any specs that work well for a regrind with standard valve train? Or maybe i will bite the bullet and pay 250 for a billet one, what do you guys reckon?
Oh and i really should get arround to port matching my manifolds!

Thanks ange, i will try! just out of interest who else runs mid to high 16s and what have they done? Id like to crack a 15 with the cam, suspension and tyre change, maybe a little optomistic tho but u gotta aim for something. I was also in with a chance at some prize money in the street class but i red lighted by .04 of a sec, came 4th out of 20 cars so im stoked with it!
I managed to beat a vp and a vt wagon probably stock tho in the normal racing. Go the dattos

well today sunday july 3, i raced my car at air raceway in adelaide over the quarter mile. I thought my times could be of interest to those of you looking for cheap performance.
My engine is stock in good nick appart from a ported head that i did at work with the die grinder, downdrought webber and standard exhaust manifold with 2" system and one straight through muffler. I run a 280zx 5 spd which believe it or not fits into standard manual tunnel with lugs removed, also have locked 3.9 ratio 120y bw diff. Tyres were only 175 by 13 so got a fair amount of wheel spin.
Anyway to the point my best time was 16.7 @ 79mph. Im very happy with this and next i will get a cam and fit some 205s as well as sorting out my rear suspension as it is very stiff, mostly its just the tyre that flexes Does anyone no what rims to use on a standard diff to achieve 205 tyres fitting with the right offset? Any coments welcome

Ps have videos and picts coming soon!

There is a milky oily residue under the radiator cap but not under the rocker cover cap or the dipstick itself. The residue is getting worse under the radiator cap and the coolant is even turning milky. I find it strange that the oil stays fine? What do you guys think? Oh and its an l20b and has 250 000 kms on the clock prob needs rebiuld soon. Still runs and idles perfectly too

ok so i think i have the series 2 then as its got the black rocker cover and elec ign. Does anyone no what the comp ratio is for this motor. Went for a bit of a cruise in the hills today up to lobethal and it appears the car is too stiff and bumpy for the rough roads, it just wants to step out, maybe i should take the locker out. Is it possible to make the car handle well in the hills with the locker? i have stanza struts with the girlock brakes, ea falcon front springs, 120y swaybar, the rear is reset leaves very stiff, lowered all round. I also have to sort out what appears to be a slave cyl problem in the clutch hydraulics. The clutch was begining to slip and when i cracked the bleeder pressure was released meaning the clutch was not fully engaging, maybe the seals were bypassing? Gaurds need further rolling took some nasty chunks out of my tyres! All in all im stoked with way it goes for what it is and will take me a while to get bored with the power. Haha im guessing it would only have 50rwk max but geez it has good torque, dont really need to rev past four grand!

I have the elec ign too was on the motor, does this make it a series one or two, what comp ratio do they have. I have a turbo setup in my room that i biult for it, was going to sell it but ive seen the light and will put it on later once everything else on the car is sorted. It uses a big ct20b turbo, supra front mount and is setup for blow through. I only had setup running on axle stands but standing on the brakes and nailing it in 5th with 10 psi was like it is now in second, god it will nail and blow my diff

i had to chop approx 20mm from the crossmember and reweld it up. I also added some extra bracing. I had to space the 120y sway bar down approx 10mm to clear the oil pump but once i did that it fits Sweet. i swear 1200s are made for the l series just its a damn tight fit and a pain to work on. Throughout the conversion i was wondering wether it was worth it as there is no room to get at gearbox bolts so its an engine box out affair. After first test drive i decided it was worth the blood sweat and tears! i want to engineer it badly but need to save some money up, ill just drive it easy for a while for now though. Yes i got the two tailshafts joined and shortened, for anyone in sa id recomend repco balancing centre in wingfield, did it all in new bearings for only $130. No worries any more questions just ask and thanks for the comments!