Thanks for the advise phunk i will try it if i need to.

oh ok didnt realise that, i guess it is a little strange that there different then, yes its running but not too well because its thrown out the tune a bit. Its in at the workshop now for a retune etc. It felt a lot ####ter to drive and i couldnt detect any lumpyness at all so id doubt its much different probably just more lift. Ill have to set it up properally some time as the cam lobes dont hit dead centre of the rockers need thicker lash pads i reckon. $195 for a cam wheel thats adjustable, however furked if id no how to set it up...

Might be somethink do do with it being a turbo grind maybe, yea im used to seeing specs like 30/65 etc buggered if i no what my duration means but id guess there wouldnt be much any overlap because its turbo. Seems to be a bit of lift, dunno why cam and valve lift are different, would have thought the cam would push down the same amount the valves would go down?

haha youd be laughing then, get a $90 spool while you save for the lsd then

Its a reground standard cam done by wade, yea it would change the vac signals slightly at a guess and the ecu may give the wrong fuel and ign timing.

UPDATE: 10/06/07

Well the bloody blue 1200 has consumed all my free time the last couple of months what with building a new motor for it etc. Now its off at the workshop for tune/ boost and various other bits and pieces giving me time to get stuck into my white project again. I stated by flushing the radiator and block a good 5 times to get all the rusty water out of it and left it empty to prevent further corrosion whilst its sitting around.
I started by doing the C pillar ?, made and welded a patch. Ive just learnt how damn easy it is to get warps in the panels, i was doing maybe 2 or 3 quick tacks at a time then cooling with wet soaked rag, still made high spots in the 90degree corners, looks like 45s would def be the go as they didnt warp. I managed to knock them down a fair bit but still a couple of low spots the filler will cover. Then i did the boot seal area. Heres some pics from today.

The patch tacked in




The patch welded in




Weld ground back, showing the 3 high and low spots as marked H and L




Whole area back to bare metal with dents knocked lower, rust convertor put on and ready for some filler.




Filler applied, did whole area so its more gradual and unnoticeable




New metal tacked in for boot seal area




Welded in, didnt warp at all too easy!




Weld ground back, few spots will need filler but the bulk of it will be ok with primer.




Hopefully i get a bit done tomorrow and ill post back!

Im not exactly sure but i think both axle tubes are removed and shotened/rewelded, the short axle becomes the long one and the long one needs shortening and resplining. Mounts need to be cut off and weld on 1200 ones in correct position. I guess brake lines and handbrake cables would also need sorting out. Doing the mounts yourself would save a fair whack of dosh no doubt

Good cast pistons are avaliable for around $200. If you are turboing later id suggest staying well away from acl cast pistons and any ezyfit gaskets. Try duropro or the like for a full gasket set maybe $100. Ive used hastings rings at $50 a set these are good quality from usa. Also you will have to fork out for machining, dont no how much that would be. I got a mild reground cam for $150. Budget at least $500 i would think, more if your paying labour!

Dont have an adjustable cam gear so cant dial in any adjustment, do you think this could be a problem? That is all the specs that were given so dont no the seperation, is this seperation like the overlap? Thanks, Will

no one?