Wards,

What Lower ball joint did you use, and do you mind explaining a little more regarding the anti dive modification as |I see you have 3 mounting options on the front track rod mount position?

Thx, Dattoman, any possibility you can tell me how you got to those figures as I would like to learn.

Just trying to find out what size pipe I had to use was fun, some of the well-known rally personality’s down in Cape Town couldn't even tell me with precision what size pipe I had to use. More or less at that point that I wipped out the FIA manual and tried doing my best.

Trying to find a rule book will be fun.

Hi wards, thanks for clearing that up, yes I'm aware of the facts that you stated, what I did, took the FIA specs and added the majority of all the pieces they mentioned as I could not get any real concise answers to what I would need for All Tar Rally's, Hillclimbs in the country, particularly because in RSA there isn't enough of these sorts of events and no rules exists. Apparently we have different sets of rules when it comes to regional races, also the age of the vehicles play role.

I need your help.

In my previous brake upgrades I just bought calipers from normal vehicles, installed them and went on enjoying it. Now I'm faced with caliper piston sizing. I'm going to order a set of Wilwood Dynapro Radial mount calipers, but what piston size?

I'm using a Wilwood copied reverse swing long ratio 6.25:1 pedal box, still need to purchase the masters for the front and rear brakes, would like to use the Wilwood Compact MC as I can purchase cheaper PBR units. Sizes avail is 0.75, 0.7 and 0.625

If you need more info please tell me!

Is the answer to this so easy that there is no info on the net or rocket science that no one have posted some info, please if anyone can assist, please do?

lamb_daiquiri: let me assure you, converting a live axle to a IRS setup is one crap load of work, that I can promise you, but the end results is far more worth the effort.

Look in my project thread, I build my own SLA IRS setup for my 1200 and my brother MHDat did the E30 subframe swop, it is a lot of work. Luckily for us our regulations is not near as strict as in Aus. If you guys are interested in some pics of his install, shout and I'll upload.

Ha, you just mentioned the swear word.

My brothers 1200 is almost as wide as mine front and back. He installed a BMW E30 rear sub frame into his and I changed his track rods and LCA to longer adjustable units to match the rear, in total his car is 150mm wider than stock, we are busy putting together plans to make some flares, currently the biggest thing I'm worried about, give me a few pieces of metal and I can do wonders with it, but round curves etc, I'm lost.

14 May 2011 – Bodywork

Not a lot has happened that I can show you, but we started with the bodywork, the idea is to get this done as the first priority. You would also see that the front suspension has not been build, the idea around this is that if we get bad weather on a day we can work on the mechanical side of things. This is a win win situation for me as I now have more time to gather parts.












It seems that we are finish with all the welding on the body and started to get this cleaned up with some body filler. Some of you that knows the 1200 very good would notice that I removed the rear bumper indents as I'm not going to use any bumpers on the car. The previous owner also sprayed half the rear end of the car with stone chip, I removed this, as I want the back to be smooth, this is going to be a lot of work but I'll get there. The rear of the car currently looks like a chameleon.






I was lucky enough to source a set of Nissan 200SX S13 front knuckles, this will form the basis of the front suspension, this is a win for me as I already have 2 30mm wide alu spacers that converts 4/114 - 4/100 pcd. On the braking front the S13 Calipers will not be replaced with the S14 units I bought previously, but with a set of Wilwood’s. Lower Control Arms will be completely new custom build units so to the Track rods. I'll be taking the car to the police clearance department within the next month to get a Reference number stamped as I'm going to remove the current number, this will allow me to replace the current top plate on the shock towers with a plate that will form the top plate of my Pillow Ball Mounting that will be Camber/Caster adjustable.

Hopefully this weekend we will finish with all the body filler work and start getting the interior of the car ready for some paint. I still have to form some sort of plan to get the interior sprayed, the roll cage is not going to make this a easy task.

Hi nick_m

I'm still far away from swaybars, but thinking of using something in the region of 22mm-26mm in front as a start. Rear I'll first leave out.

Front Springs would be 400 - 500lbs/inch
Rear 300lbs/inch as a start

I used 450lbs/inch springs on the Ute with the A14 and that worked quite good, the only problem was the shocks was valved to soft to keep up. We have an exchange program on racing springs here in Cape Town, South Africa which helps a lot for setup.

If you are going to use your car on the road, stay away from rates this high, it is quite a crappy ride.

Hehe, I need a decent set of 1200 rear light clusters and some mirrors that mount on the doors.

The biggest secret is planning and taking your time, walk around scrapyards and get some idea what you are looking at, plan and just start, do not stop until it is done.

Oh, and just freakin do it, if you think it could work, just get it done.