If you do decide to go the wireless route, give me a shout.

I'm the chairman of CTWUG - Cape Town Wireless User Group - we dom some crazy shiit with wifi 40km links etc.

Yes yes, know everyone knows I'm a computer geek.

In your case, you are going to have power all the way down the 100m to the shed, at 50m tap some power for a 5 port switch.

For the telephone, you can always try a much thicker core cable to keep the voltage drop to a minimum. In SA we only use 2wires for our phones.

lol, "Do you guys get lots of rust on your dats?" what a understatement. Crap loads sounds better, the reason why I'm doing everything the other way around. The ute has some serious rust popping out. I wanted to sell it last year because of it, kept it and started racing with it, once I'm happy with the performance/handling side, I'll make a call to either get the rust removed or sell and get one that is in a better shape and just swap all my parts.

Fark, I want a 1200GX.

1200GXMan I'm in the same boat, needs to be correct the first time if we are talking of more than R500 bucks. I do one crap load of research before hand.

My pleasure, I must say, once I'm done with my front suspension, you'll be sorted there to when it comes to poly bushes.

I must say, this website brought a lot of SA okes together, exchanging ideas, info etc.

Great work to the owners, the mods and all the members.

lol, janee, nou is dit maklik vir jou

Which pipes, the flexible ones or the other.

Luckily our laws aren't that strict.

1200GXman, nice front end, already a huge improvement, especially on the brake side of things. That is one of the other reasons why I'll be making my own coil-overs.

My ute is sorted on the brake side of things for know:
Front: Nissan Sentra 160SI Vented discs and calipers
Rear: VW City Golf front solid Discs and MK2 Golf GTI rear Calipers.

I would just like to mention, what a crap load of work to custom fit these items.
You get real confidence when you start braking the vehicle.

Bushes:
Rear Shackle: R14 each
Front Bush on Leaf: R24 each
Was like R200 for the 12 bushes.

Fark Poly bushes was a nightmare, been waiting a month, at last Windsor Garage sorted me out. There supplier is a company called Wheeltech in Port Elizabeth. They did not have the front leaf bush, gave them a sample and they custom made it, luckily they added it to there product range, one thing that would be easier for the next datto fan.

Now the next problem starts, they only have Idler Arm and Castor Rod bushes for the front, I'll need to send samples of the rest to get it made up, hopefully they will add that to the product range to.

As the parts arrive, I'll take some pics.

Budget what a crap thing, it is the reason why I'll only be able to afford the spring at the end of the month, then I'll be able to finish these coil overs.

Ok here goes:

Threaded Tubes: R720 - (The Oval Racing Shop - Johannesburg)
Monroe Golf Rabbit Gas Inserts - E3002: R 1040 - (Ordered thru Midas from Tenneco)
Starting with 200 lbs Springs 200mm Free Length: R640 (G & A Promotions - Parow)
Lazer Cut a few washers and coil over spanners: R180

R2580 ($405 Aus +-) without paint and hard work - not to bad, I reckon.

Threaded Tubes will be electro plated, otherwise the buggers start to rust. Cut a piece out of the original strut tube, retain the threaded part were the nut that hold the shock in place, weld together to accommodate the shorter shock.

Place Threaded Tube over strut tube, weld in place.

In a nutshell that is it. After all of this, I'll be able to utilize my camber/castor plates to there full potential. Have been driving around with them for more than 5weeks now, no issues.

I have a extra leaf in my pack in the rear, to hard at the back, unloading the inner wheel on cornering way to easy, because of stiffness on a open diff. Will be taking the extra one out and another one for now, also adjusting the shocks to soft. I want this thing to be super soft in the rear. Also replacing all rear bushes except shock bushes with decent race spec Polyurethane pieces, need to get rid of all unnecessary play. Not the soft crap that is just a OEM replacement. Maybe I'll get rid of some tramp to.

I have also scrapped my idea of a rear anti roll bar for now.

What we have gathered; setup wise for gymkhana racing with RWD vehicles: Stiff as hell in front, soft at the back.

Basically down here in Cape Town (The Mother City), South Africa we only have one shop that sells racing springs, visited the owner yesterday.

Asked about springs he recommended starting at 400lbs.

He sells these springs in increments of 50lbs and there free length is 200mm.

From what I have gathered on this site is that for my Gymkhana racing I will need between 200-250lbs.

Could it be that there measuring equipment is crap or just someone that has it completely wrong?

Ordered a set of Monroe Golf Rabbit Gas Inserts, just hope there damping rate will be good for these springs.

Do not really understand what you mean/looking for Matto1kute?

From my experience with Su's, they are cold arse carbs.

You need to choke them.
They will only really start to work when the engine reached full operating temperature. Until then my set backfires thru the air cleaner.

How do they run when the engine is at full operating temp?