The configuration is great, the whole sliding plate and 4-6 Allen caps that needs to be undone and done again just does not make sense to me. Great option if you take it to someone that does the alignment and you are done. I'm not after something that can earn you braging rights, I want something practical, adjustable and easy to operate.
If you need to change these stuff on a hourly basis to gain the correct setup for a gymkhana or race, this is the way I think is the easiest.

Currently it is only a trial fitment.

The loctite + locknut is the option.

When I can afford the conversion parts this will be the way to go.
Adding a nut to it know adds another 10mm of lift. The rose joint adds already about 18mm.

In the beginning post of this thread there are to links.

I'll add the pic to it.

In the picture you can see the 3rd hole, but it will be destroyed when I have all the parts and do the final cut out. I'm after max castor and will play around with camber, need to use the full surface of the semi slicks.

I'm going to use some nice fat and wide washers at the bottom as there are already a double plate for strength.

The track racers normally only want camber and can move the plates around to utilize only the original holes.

If there are interest, I'll even change the CAD drawings for this purpose.

Trial and error will sort it out, going to test it out with stainless bolts, if that does not hold up, I'll make a set of reinforced bolt thingies on the lathe.

Here is my version of a cheap way to get camber and castor.
Photo
Photo
It is temporarily installed, still need to finish the cut out in the Strut Tower. Also incorporated is the holes for the strut brace.

This is all part of a coil over conversion. Once I can afford the threaded tubes, springs and the new shocks, I'll do the conversion and bolt these in permanently.

The CAD Drawings is available to Datsun1200 fans. Note: These plates do not shine and look pretty, they have one goal, Camber and Castor adjustment between races. Only recommended to race vehicles.

Notes:

Plates are made of 5mm Mild Steel
Uses 2 of the original 3 bolt holes. 2 more need to be drilled.
Camber / Castor can be adjusted to Factory spec if the vehicles is driven to the track or used on the road.
Original Bearing is used.
A M12 x 1.25 pitch Rose Joint/Rod End is used, in SA our shocks thread is M12 x 1.25 pitch, maybe yours differ.

Original Springs:
Photos in the picture show the original bearing, spring and retainer plate.
Camber adjustment will be limited to the size of the coil spring diameter. It hits the side of the Strut Tower.

Coilover Conversion:
The original bearing will be used and the rose joint and the new retaining plate that comes with the threaded tubes. This will enable me to get more camber/castor due to the smaller diameter of the springs, more room before hitting the strut tower.

The one thing I did notice, if I lower the ute, the shocks will bottom out, even with 14" semi slicks on. Busy with Monroe SA to get my hands on a set of Golf MK1/Rabbit inserts, only issue is: VW SA changed the Rabbits inserts to sealed strut assemblies. So these inserts are very scares. Other option will be KYB inserts, again, a nightmare to get in SA.

Why do we need to struggle to get technical info on products, asking me for what vehicle it is and sourcing it does not help, I need info like tube diameter, type, length extended/compressed?

I'll keep you updated on the progress of this little mini project.

Attach file:

---

  Camber-Castor Plate280.jpg (67.97 KB)


  Shock Assembly280.jpg (49.74 KB)

Faark, i need to get the bakkie on a dyno, I have good bottom end torque and top end performance. Pulls clean to 7k rpm without a hint of performance drop.

The 4-1 TNT branch works for me, personally i think my motor is better balanced with the 4-1 than it would be with the 4-2-1, but then for a Gymkhana setup you need good bottom end torque and need to pull 1st to the end of the rpm range, you also need to exit a corner in 2nd at around 3k rpm and be able to get the revs up nice and quickly.

On a wet road the bakkie is already a biatch to drive, I do not want to know how it would be with a 4-2-1. To hard and I mean the first 10mm of throttle easily result to standing still.

On a road car, if you are going to drive it as you should, the 4-2-1 would probably be better ( if the road is dry ). If you plan to use it on the road and drive the crap out of it, high rpm, the 4-1 will be a good bet.

Yes you can build your own, I even think some engineering shops sell the 4-1 collector plates.

But @ R915 for a TNT/Cowley/Viper is it worth it.

Reason why I would do something like this is to get all the pipes at a equal length.

I replaced my mounts with a set of these http://www.race-tech.co.za/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=593 as the old pair was starting to tear. In SA we have a Shop called Rubber Products and Mouldings, sure Aus must have a similar shop, ask them for Ford V6 Mountings, R180 Each (Aus +- $25), but worth every cent.

Just had to slot the holes in the engine mounts to accommodate the new mounting. The Datsun mount bolts are off center from each other.

I can promise you, if you destroy these with a A series motor, you must be boosting.

In the case of sparkyza and myself, the higher the rpm the better, some may disagree with me, let me explain, Our gymkhana tracks are quite tight, If I approach the next braking point, but is 10m from it, it is no use to up shift to 2nd, but an extra 500rpm, useful or not is better than sitting on a rev limiter. That 500rpm may not make power, but is enough to carry me to the braking point, saving time to down shift again for the exit of the corner.

Probably a cheaper option would be to run on 14" Semi slicks at the back, this will give me longer legs, but then until I get to the next track where that 10m from the braking point scenario come up again, that 500rpm would be nice.

My time to build a Strut brace is approaching fast, have designed camber/castor plates for the ute that incorporates brackets for fitting a strut brace, just need the time.

Rezlo you seem to be the only one in SA to find some decent parts for the datsuns.