Also had to work on the branch before the Dual SU intake and the branch worked together. But in my opinion it was marginal, 10 minutes of grinding and fitting over and over and all is good.

Rezlo, is there a local SA supplier for these fans that I can find out how many arms and legs will be needed to purchase one. Otherwise I must start looking at a genuine fan at some scrapyard.

GXman, that will be the next steps. For the time being I will keep to the mechanical fan until I can get a better fan and move and replace the fan switch. But But, I have installed a manual switch to, the plan is to switch it manually on just before a run or if I see things are heating up.

Currently using a switch that switches on 85C.
Apparently you also get a pulsar switch that comes on at 75C, the one I'm after.
But my biggest issue is the location, it needs to be in the top hose.

Installed the second anti roll bar. What a great mod, more or less, gained about 1sec on my rivals, missed 4th place for the day with 0:00.21 of a second.
Know that is what I call close racing.

The Flywheel, the easiest I could figure it out was, if you look at the drawings, from the inner part, they provide you with a small radius value, on one of the sketches, they state never go below 12mm thickness. What I did is take the small radius added 12 to it. Any good machine shop will figure it out. I first went to Goth & Cooper - what a waste. The dude that done mine: his job is building racing cars, I showed him the drawing and told him go for it, and he went mad.


The Branch is a 4-1 TNT for the Nissan 1400 bakkie R896 incl Vat @ Masterparts . Each pipe on it is 38mm into a collector with a 3 bolt flange. Was thinking of the GX Extractor, but down in Cape Town they are scarce, "Hulle is hoender Tande". Currently it has enough torque, first want to see what it does, a complete new vehicle to learn.

So true on the fan side, also removed the mechanical fan, in the garage it works, temp goes up, fan kick in and bring it down, fan switch of. On the road other story. Put the mechanical fan back for the time being. Currently the fan switch is in the lower radiator pipe. Want to move it to the top pipe and install a fan switch that kicks in @ around 70-75degrees. Also want to re core the radiator, maybe if possible add a core to it. Will get it sorted, just money the issue.

And people please do not kill me for mentioning a non Datsun Vehicle.
(We have another vehicle that we race with in the form of a Ford Escort Mark II. We fitted a 2.0Lt Zetec motor to it, nice torgue motor.) - Sorry, sorry
This thing has a radiator with steel tanks, took it in and had it re core, they placed a 3 core core in it. Standard it is only 2 core core. It works beautiful with only a electrical fan.

Madness, even in RSA that is crazy.
I had a A12 Flywheel machine down to Datsun Comp Spec, balanced the flywheel and pressure plate for that sort of money.

What a busy few weeks getting the Ute in order.
On Saturday we have another gymkhana. Hope everything will be in order.

Just want to give all that provided me with tips and tricks some feedback.
Got the Datsun Comps spec on the flywheel, took the flywheel and a new pressure plate to the dude that does my machining, he got it down to 5.78kg, he also balanced the flywheel and new pressure plate for me, all machining and balancing for R350 bucks (53 AUD, is this a lot) in SA currency it is cheap.

Installed the A12GX head with worked ports and valves.
Fitted a 4-1 branch manifold, already had a 50mm Stainless Free flow System
HS4 Dual SU Carburetors, intake manifold ports matched to head intake ports
Fitted a electric fan, switch comes on at 85degrees, removed mechanical fan on waterpump
Had to purchase a new Temp Sensor, could not get the old one out of the A14 head.

Here comes the interesting bit, somewhere down the line, they changed the resistance on these sensors, from about 560ohm to about 360ohm at 16degrees.
This caused more than enough problems. All of a sudden the temp gauge needle climbed way more that it should.

We started it up, all was fine, no bolts, pistons or valves flew around, tuned the su’s. The electronic fan came on, everything working as it should.

Once on the road it was a different story, torque there is a lot of, it is clean, revs up nicely, pulls excellent from 2k rpm right thru to the limiter (currently at 7k rpm), there is not even signs that you are about to hit the limiter, this means all is working together, producing nice bottom down torque and decent top end power.

Then, all of a sudden the motor gets hot. After a day or two and enough swear words to make a sailor look like a beginner. We figured it out. Once on the road there is enough air traveling over the switch to cool it down and not switch the fan on. This caused me more time under the bonnet than needed. Obviously if the water gets way to hot pressure builds and want to escape somewhere, the place it picked was between cylinder 3 and 4 at the water ports on the intake manifold gasket. After taking it apart, I also noticed that the one exhaust manifold washer was pressing against a piece of welding. Grinded it down, reassembled the lot. Also re-fitted the old mechanical fan on the water pump to be on the safe side.

Took it for a drive, no issues what so ever anymore, the fan doesn’t even switch on after some heavy spinning and gymkhana practice.

Saturday we have our next race meeting and look forward to the added power and overall better A14-A12 inbreed.
Just hope I will be able to keep the wheel spin to a minimum, we are expecting rain also, and that sure as hell will not help.

Thanks a lot to all that helped and gave advice.

Sounds like exactly the same issue i had with the 36DCD.
In my case it was flooding.

andy-roo my situation is almost the same as yours, but in my case, I can log in only at work, thus using the same laptop at work and home.

The only reason I currently can think of is different Internet Service Providers. Some may be blocking ports and others not, but then again, I work for a big corporate and only port 80 (Inet traffic) is open here as they are very strict on security. At home I manage my own firewalls thru Mikrotik Routers and sure as hell do not blok/drop ports needed for normal inet traffic.

Thus leading me to think it can be ISP related.

A decent set of roller rockers will be cool. But here is the catch, for about R1000 SA rand.

A quote from yhe article:
"The only change made was the replacement of secondary spring (the one that is loosest) with one from the kit. This procedure keeps the primary part of the ignition curve standard but quickens the secondary part so that it peaks nearer the point of peak torque and just above the tip-in point of the secondary throttle."

Does anyone now what the kit consist of, or what other dizzy springs can be used in the A-Series dizzy to achieve this advance closer to peak.

ddgonzal: I do not see the advance curve on the link you gave me, maybe something wrong on my side? Here is the link http://wiki.datsun1200.com/index.php/ ... r#Advance_Characteristics