I'm assuming this is for your custom manifold, correct me if I'm wrong. What is it you're trying to figure out?

Unless anyone comes up with any other measured data the best we can do is have a guesstimate.

It'll depend on whether it's dry, wet and what's under it in terms of the exhaust manifold. Extractors are likely to radiate a little more heat since they can't conduct much back to the head. If it's a wet manifold, normally it'll never exceed ~100°C, dry it might get hotter from radiated heat off the exhaust. I don't have any solid numbers (nothing to measure it with) but I found I needed a heat shield under my ITBs, even with it they still get hot to touch, say 60°C ish. I have extractors, unwrapped.

Your manifold sections look to be substantial in the photos so it'll probably conduct a good amount of heat back to the head which is maintained at around 90-100°C, the gasket will have some minor insulating properties. You could probably assume the manifold wont get past 150°C at a guess. If that's not stretching anything then no worries, if it is you might want to get a thermal gun and take some measurements. Or, water boils at 100, that'll give you a crude measure by dripping it on.

Hope this helps, this data always seems hard to come across.

They look nice, are you going for a twin TB setup?

I used the shielded 9 core from Jaycar for my sensors since there's almost zero current and they're more prone to noise. The other wires I used different gauges for different jobs. The Megasquirt manual will tell you how much current (maximum) is on each pin on the connector and I think they also list the gauge wire you need. I connected all the non-sensor ground pins to one 20A cable with a few smaller pieces of wire.

Prior to my latest loom with a bulkhead across the fire wall I used a D37 printer cable and wired everything to that. It worked, but it wasn't removable and there were too many fiddly little joins for my liking.

Have a look on eBay or similar for packs of coloured wire or have a google, there's plenty of places that sell smaller quantities of coloured wire for looms.

Hope this helps.

I used either an N14 pulsar or a 200sx alternator, the look the same, I just can't remember which one I actually fitted. Wiring mods only, bolted straight up.

If you put 33ohms in line with the sender at least you'll know when it's at each extreme, you just won't get the full range on the gauge.

Nb25 is actually a bit bigger than 25mm id. Also,going square to cylindrical you use hydraulic diameter as a rule of thumb. The hydraulic diameter of a 26mm square port is 26mm.

Endfab: I'm using 25NB sch40 steam pipe and butt weld fitting if that helps. It's a good match for the exhaust port size which you want to maintain to the turbo inlet, at this point the cross section reduces further to convert the pressure in the exhaust to velocity, which is how the power is extracted in the turbine. You want to avoid any expansions before the turbo as these waste energy.

The main thing is you weren't too beat up.

I also bought one of those radiators and found I had to Dremel out the holes to fit it. The holes were too far apart in the horizontal. At the same time I discovered the mounting points weren't square so I wondered how much was my radiator panel and how much was the radiator. One of the holes ended up so close to the radiator that the cap head M6 only just fits.

or perhaps damage to the cam, or the CAS not engaging properly? Just ideas, hope you get it sorted, chasing electrical issues can be frustrating!

Sounds like you found the problem, maybe the CAS isn't engaging with whatever it's supposed to connect to? A gear? I've never had a CA so I don't know.