Looks like the carbon button is missing from the middle, if it is it's surprising it runs at all!

I also use an alloy ebay radiator on an A15, towed a trailer interstate without getting hot. The long up hills at full throttle didn't bother it either.

Originally they were Cast Iron

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... ex.php?title=Piston#Rings

Edit: this is an interesting read https://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTip ... mposition_recommendat.htm

Thanks, you just made me look at it another way. I might have another go at it before I make it. So many things to balance up.

I think I'm almost ready to get some parts made, I'm getting some bends soon I'll just need to measure the pipe OD and make sure it suits the model before moving ahead. Can anyone suggest a cnc machinist in the Adelaide area?

Personally I'm not a fan of RTV silicone in addition to gaskets. I recently rebuilt my A15 and didn't use any sealant on the sump. Cleaned heaps of it off from the last work done though. It was all over the oil inlet screen.

No leaks that I can see. The rubber seals that go over the main oils seals bedded in fine. The cork gasket you just need to get the tension on nice and even and be careful not to over tighten. It's easy to extrude it and ruin the seal.

I was a little unsure about the paper gaskets since they're so thin, I used a small amount of form-a-gasket, a liquid sealant on them. The only problem I had was the oil pump leaking because I didn't get all the old gasket off properly the first time.

I generally use plain old engine oil for assembly lubricant. I try to work on the principal only add stuff if you have to.

These guys had them when I bought them (http://www.autosurplus.com.au/), from memory they were 5-10 each, it was a while ago. I got a set of main bearings from these guys http://www.reflexeng.com.au/, they had them in stock since the other guys had run out. They might also have parts like that.

Otherwise you can get lucky calling a place like Repco or Autobarn who probably wont have them but might know who will. Another avenue might be contacting a head reconditioning place, they'd know where to get them.

True, if you're in Aus there were some 90s astra/ pulsars that had central point injection, there was also a ford falcon (3.9L?). A trip to the wreckers might save you a bunch of work...

If you look at the turbo a series for under 1200 thread Simon's using a Hyundai Excel Throttle body (from memory). Being something I'm currently looking at myself I'm thinking a throttle body off a 1.5-1.8L motor, ideally one that also has an IAC stepper built into it to make cold start up easier. Something like the one on the GA16de engine. I'm planning on heading down to the wreckers just to see what there is.

This calculator is useful for comparison:
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm#throttle

Ideally you want the minimum size to have zero restriction at WOT/ max power. Going too big makes it hard to drive. A progressive dual plate throttle gives you a little bit of both worlds, larger throttle area but good part throttle control.

I finally got around to finishing the next iteration of my exhaust design, seems to fit around my intake manifold. Lots of welding involved but it can use standard but weld fittings.

I might try 3D printing the exhaust manifold to see how it fits on the engine/ turbo. I haven't had a lot of luck printing big stuff before.....

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