That depends on how much boost you want. Spinning at crank speed it will pump roughly 2.1 times the engine displacement in. The boost pressure will depend on eficiency of the compressor and any intercooling. Intercooling will reduce temp and pressure giving more power for the same pulley ratio. Without intercooling I'd guess at about 18 psi boost. Probably fine with e85. With intercooling it would be closer to maybe 16psi boost and you may get away with PULP fuel with good tuning.

You'd never use it's full range though, you could happily use that charger on a 3-4 L engine.

Take this with a grain of salt as it's a bit of a thumb rule based guess.

You could make up some 90 degree bends to join the manifold to the ITBs to point them up and out the bonnet. That would be 4 identical pipes and 2 identical flanges.

Don't the lifters look like valves? I don't think you'd fit a roller bearing in there without boring out the hole.

Roller lifters make larger side loads and it will change the lift profile of the valve as the contact point is not always in the same place as the flat lifter. Can't remember exactly how it changes off the top of my head. I can't see it being an issue if you could fit it in.

ha ha ha

Clear poly would be cool as! Have to get a plastic with low permeability though or coat it with something to stop the oil staining it. HDPE maybe? Make a mold and bake it.

Chris has played with acrylic (those discs he had for the head), maybe he can tell you how quickly that stuff stains. I remember making molds and making things with that in school. Not sure how hot the oven was...

have to fight 'em off with a stick!

Didn't Cheech have 6ULDV8? (Movie up in smoke)

Any one considered making a carbon fibre or glass fibre (GFRP) custom rocker cover, it is possible to chrome plate them. That would surely work out easier and cheaper. Not to discourage of course. Interested to see the product!

Thanks for that! Can't quite see how that switch works, I think I'm going to go for a spdt signal relay and run it off the bulb side of the switch. Futurlec sell them for 60cents. I think that will be easier than mounting another switch.

If I get this working and there's any interest I'll put up info of how I did it when I finally finish. (I don't get much datto time.)

I'm fitting a secondhand holden (Rochester) cruise control unit I picked up for about $10-. Commodore wiring diagrams are available on the net, plugs and connectors are really cheap from self service wrecking yards and they are electrical so no vacuum is used to operate them. Hopefully the ignition trace (tach signal out ot the HEI) will suffice for speed sensor input, I'm reckoning it'll be about right, see how it goes. Different story if it was auto, then you'd need to mount a hall sensor or something.

Hi

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