Hi Everyone,

I'm wiring up a cruise control unit to my coupe and I'm just wondering if any one knows of a replacement stop light switch that has NC and NO connections? Preferably to fit in the same hole. I have an NC NO switch but it's huge and I don't like the idea of hacking up the brake switch mount. The thread on the standard one is M10x1.25, the NO NC switch I have is 1/2 NF 20.

By NC NO I mean two terminal pairs, one Normally Open, one Normally Closed and no common although I could work around this.

Otherwise I can wire something else up.

Cheers

Would this fit the coupe as well?

I used to have relays and round type key switch in an old holden I owned. The idea was to cut power to the ignition and starter solenoid. Mainly because a well aimed fart can open an old holden.

The best solution is to have a #OOPS#e car for every day and keep the good one locked away. Who wants to steal a 91 lancer that the paint is peeling off of?

Kinda wish I'd waited to buy now..... Sweet deal

Dyno before and after? That would be great for everyone else but expensive for you...

Carry the rotor button with you Unless the would be theif has one of those they wont be starting it.

Also interested in an auto bell housing to sit next to a gearbox I have and think about making it fit...

Logically it can only be a multiple of 2 since the camshaft has to operate at a frequency of half the cranksft in a 4 stroke. It would be 2:1 without a doubt. Unless there's two bumps on each lobe, then it would be 4:1. Teeth # or pitch circle diameter will both be 2:1. Stick a rule next to it. Must be an optical illusion.

It depends on the specific material. There are many types of cast iron. I think turbie housins have a little more nickel than plain old grey cast iron, could be confusing it though. The nickel would make it easier to weld.

There are generally two methods for welding cast iron. The most reliable is to gently and evenly heat it up till it's just glowing, maintain that heat, weld it and then slowly let it cool. Either bury it in hot sand or control the cool off with the gas torch.

Another less reliable way is to do it cold. Butter each side of the weld with nickel before doing a full weld.

Can also be braised but that might melt in a turbine housing.

Pretty much, if you're not an expert welder it's unwise to try welding up something as valuable as a turbine housing.

Edit: You can always practise on a junk one...

I'm interested in that head. I'd like to line it up against a head gasket and have a think about it.