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   All Posts (lamb_daiquiri)


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Re: H165 4.8 diff centre from c20
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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The Daihatsu head sounds interesting. How far did you get with that idea? Wish I had a little more time for a few more projects

Posted on: 2011/3/16 9:53
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Re: GUESS THE H.P........... BIG PRIZES FOR CLOSEST GUESS!!
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If heat loads are a concern you could consider water injection. Roughly the same flow as the fuel. Might be worth an exhaust temp guage? That would give you an indication of the heat loads I woud think. I read a paper a while back on how effective water injection is at reducing heat loads on engines. Could dig it up if you're interested.

Posted on: 2011/3/11 10:11
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Re: FS H165 Diff Melbourne
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Happen to have a tailshaft to suit? Since you're in reservoir I could probably walk over.

I bought a 165 off Bob but don't have a tail shaft for it, no hurry though.

Posted on: 2011/3/7 7:51
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Re: alternate alternators
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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You can figure it out by summing up the power of all electrical items that are on at once, keep in mind that if this is only ever for a minute the battery can cover that.

Power = voltage x amps

I wouldn't worry about it unless you find the battery slowly goes flat at night while you're driving.

Posted on: 2011/3/5 5:09
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Re: alternate alternators
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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You just need make sure that if you have an external voltage regulator the new alternator suits or you mod the wiring so it works with the internal regulator. Check out alternators in the tech section, explains swaps and how to mod to internal reg. The polished ones I've seen have been single wire, i.e. internal reg.

You could just polish the one you have.

The other thing is to make sure the pulley's the right size and that it lines up with the other pullies. Generally they run at 2x engine speed.

Posted on: 2011/3/5 1:33
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Re: Mandrel Bends
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Hey thanks for the response,

Should have been a bit more specific and said it's an intake manifold for quad throttle bodies for which mild steel would be fine.

Can you weld 304 with a suitable gassless wire (nickel?) or would I have to go buy some gas as well for my MIG. Hard to weld or similar to carbon steel? I guess there's a bit of an advantage in slowing heat transfer with SS, although the flange is mild steel. (Pretty sure nickel lets you weld them together.)

316 would be the go if I was going to cook on it or piss on it , or if I lived next to the ocean. (Paint's probably cheaper.)

I'm half thinking about chrome plating after I've built it, only because my partners old man works in that industry, paint would probably do the job.

will look about. An exhaust manifold is on the future project list so they're also helpful tips.

Posted on: 2011/3/4 22:47
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Mandrel Bends
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http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.d ... &ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Decent price? Something on my list of things to do is to build a manifold with that awesome flange Chris had made and sent over last year! Yet to get this pipe dream off the ground.

Posted on: 2011/3/4 8:05
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Re: side drafts or new carb and a new head
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A piece of hose in the ear is a good way to find air leaks. One end in the ear, move the other end around the flanges, carby safts etc. you'll soon hear if there's air whistling through somewhere it shouldn't. Not recommended for exhaust leaks, you could deafen yourself.

Posted on: 2011/3/2 10:08
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Re: 351 into datto
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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What ever happened to this project?

Posted on: 2011/3/1 9:47
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Re: Motorcycle Engine Thread MET
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Is that a civic radiator? Looks a lot like the one I bought to eventually replace the corroded one in my coupe. The dimensions are very close to standard.

Posted on: 2011/3/1 6:19
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