wish i could help you out mate
but im in syd:(

hey guys
well as im moving along in my coupe project i need someone who can engineer my sr20de s13 conversion into 1200 coupe. i am aware of all the neccesry brake and suspension upgrades that would need to be done so that it can be passed but i need to find someone i can get onside to give me the all go before i start doing too much on the car and engine.
muchly appriciated
thanks andy

yea man
what happened????

Just looking at brake boosters
is it okay to use a 180b booster??
I know there is the short and long types

now that the engine was completely pulled down and i had removed the valves. i cleaned all the internals in the diesel bin with de-greaser and a wire bush i sent the block off the be pickled (acid was because its alloy), welsh plugs, decked, hoaned boars and mains, the piston and rods to be balanced and cloase and hoaned, the harmonic balencer balanced, crank linished, balanced and pickled, flywheel balanced, sump and timing cover pickled.
when it all came back from the shop with its $450 bill i had put new piston wrings on it $80 new main, end cap and thrust washer/bearings $125. but before i throw it all back in i p-ainted the block silver, but when they did new welsh plugs they put gold ones in so for a nics touch i covered them so they would stay gold, painted sump silver, pan black, timing cover silver, harmonic balancer black and pullys and brackets black.

ive got my maddat fitting kit just before christmas with all its bits and pieces.
will load pics of all that soooon!

okay so now i move onto stages were i more am at now.
when i brought my motor to school october last year or so i was keen as all hell to start pulling it down. when i first got all the manifolds heater hoses and bullshit like that off it looked like it was going to just be another filthy engine that was going to be stuffed. i made this assumption on the basis it was a jdm import car and an australian 20yo or so driving it for three years building a red top for it it would have spun bottom end etc. but the motor was surprisingly really clean (on the inside outside was showing its use and age) and good condition. the cam lobes were spotless with not one scratch or anything, no glugging #OOPS# oil up in the head of bottom end of nothing. at worst was burt oil in the bottom end. front and rear main seels were in good condition but still seemed to be pretty bad exterior wise. i took off all the timing gear and timing case and gears so that was all out of the way. the head came off eventually one i found the hiddin little bolts on the side of the blocka and figured out the other mysticle ways for the sr20 motor. got the crank out with eaz and then everything else started to fall off as MENT TO BE. EVENTUALLY GOT IS DOWN TO THE BEAR BLOCK.

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once the motor was out pretty much just pissed away time cleaning #OOPS# up. but pulled off the gearbox, clutch and pressure plate and flywheel. clutch was pretty chomped but no real hot spots on flywheel. got them balanced and machined since then but since then i have bough a 5 pul brass button with lightened flywheel but will need to go to machine shop for machine and balance.
once the motor was all up on stands it pretty much sat in my shed for a month until i could bring it into school to start oulling it down. so in the mean time just covered it in de-greaser and gave it a pressure wash.
in the mean time with the gearbox as i am learning i am going along i found i neeed an mr30 stumpy 5speed with sr20 bellhousing and selector shaft and spigot modified got a qoute from stuart wilkins motor sport at mcgaths hill turns out i used to race motocross with his son who is now one of his mechanics. anyway its going to cost $600 to get that all done with traidning in my gearbox thats if i want to keep and least modifiend tunnel with closest rto standerd shifting hole and position. but my coupe is and auto tunnel so should be okay with getting all that done once i get the mo0ney to buy it.

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so this is the old s13 silvia beast that i went and picked up from brisbane, the chassis was very twisted and bent so there was no coming back for it. the motor had not lost oil or water at all until whrn it came off the trailer as in there are no front hubs the swat bar came up went through the sump pan and cracked the sump. luckely the old sro motor have a separate sump housing so it was nothing that $100 couldnt fix and a trip to triple s imports.

To pull the motor out took the best part of 2 hours and a bit tried to keep all the loom intact and not damage anything more apart from the shell and chassis which was alot easier to get out once cut away. found it was alot easier to drop the cross member aswell with keeping the gearbox in. wpould not be a problem if the gearbox was removed but was easier to drop the cross member considering there was nothing attached to it any way.

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all looks famtastic!
doing well with it cant wait to see more progress
wish you the best for your frustration lol

free bump
sorry it did not work out