That they are.

Checked the return springs on the carbies?, and the accelerator cable itself?.

I have been busy again making it into my new daily.

A while ago I bought an extra a12 that was freshly rebuilt. Also got some new front seats to replace the horrid ones.



So I have been busy welding up the gearbox tunnel, pretty average job but my welder is not very good on this steel. Tig welded parts of floorpan from the donor car, as well as some of its boot for other bits :D.





Also painted some bits from the other car to go in.





So I plan to put the motor/box in this next week after a bit of preparation, Need to swap the manifolds and put on the new clutch etc. Hopefully I have all the remaining bits now to complete the car and get it roadworthy.

P.S. Do I win the worst looking garage award?



Not alot of progress yet, been buying some things, U-bolts for the diff took half a week to get in, so I sat her down on the springs for the first time in a year, alot neater with the painted/cleaned up parts. Started cleaning up the garage so I can work on getting the motor prepared

One thing that came off the parts car were some 15x7 +18 Works ewing III's, they fill out the rear alot better (pretty much perfect offset), no chance of fitting on a lowered front tho.

I don't really feel like running different wheels front and rear. So I will need to find a set of decent rims that are made with close enough offsets to match the car. Something like 15x6.5 +16 for the front and 15x7 +18 for the rears :). Most places I look at usually either have the wrong offsets or don't make 6.5's :(



/less boostcrusing offset fail :D



So I emailed works wheels australia after looking around at online wheel catalogs all night, got a reasonable quote on a full set of Equip 03's.

They look like this.


http://www.workwheelsusa.com/media/wh ... /87/Equip_03_SPEC09A4.pdf

About the only old school looking rim that would fit, offsets would be: Front 15x6.5 +14 A Disk
Rear 15x7 +20 O Disk

I figure I could sell the watanabes and ewing III's for about as much as I'd be spending.

I ended up deciding to go with the black polish.

So a little bit of progress and changes, The front brakes came back mint, I've put them on the car and bolted up the flywheel and clutch, Repainted the sump and have changed all the motor's gaskets.

So I went to chuck the motor in the car and after about 5 engine mount combinations got it right, later model utes came with different brackets and crossmembers, and the stocko ones I had were modified to fit the wrong rubber sets, so I got a good set of stock mounts and have put them on.

In came the next hassle, The parts car motor I had came with a m30 later model head which has a different stud pattern for the inlet manifold, which meant without further head modification or getting the other head rebuilt that it would not fit :(, So I bit the bullet and ordered a new manifold and 32/36 DGV weber off ebay, came in the mail this arvo, wet my pants a little :).




So hopefully given good weather and no garage floods this week I can get the gearbox and interior into the car and ready to go, which does not leave alot left to get the car running. Only problem is I lost my license (typical right before I get the putter on the road).

Had a little bit of a #OOPS# around with the manifolds on the motor, seems something still seems iffy about the motor positioning, It seems to be too far forward in the bay, the shifter doesnt fit the standard location, but that can be fixed, the extractors seem to hit the firewall before the gearbox looks to be in the right spot, so that might need a bit welding to fix.

Once again the engine bay needs alot of cleaning :).



Sorry if this post is a bit choppy, its a cut and paste :).

So a very long time has past since my last post in this thread.

I had purchased alot of bits to make the ca18 work, and made a fair bit of progress, This included:
Microtech lt10s, standard ca18 radiator, custom made exhaust manifold to fit the gt2860rs, a 550x190x62.5 cooler, shortened r31 diff with kazz center etc. It looked a bit like this :).









With grill ziptied on so you can see what it looks like behind it.



Diff

So I finally got around to putting the gearbox on today to investigate a certain few issues I have been having with my 1200.

Firstly I had 2 motors.

The first one came out of a sedan with the old crossmember. The sedans mounts were both modified horribly with bits cut and welded everywhere, they made the motor fit horribly wrong, on top of this the gearbox mount was a piece of flatbar which had been made, my best guess is that the owner chopped and change all this in a horrible attempt to make the extractors fit (WTF).

The second one came out of a ute with the new crossmember, the mounts looked standard but the exhaust side had something welded on the side of it aswell :(.

I have used the sedan passenger side, and the ute drivers side to get the best fit I could. On top of all this the rubber mounts don't seem to be the proper ones either, I have not seen any stock ones for years so I really can't tell.

Engine seems too far forward in the bay, it also does not seem to get level before the extractors hit the floorpan (could also be a problem with the extractors.). The shifter is sitting too far forward compared to the shifter hole, the car was sold manual I believe but the previous owner before me made it auto.

If anyone has any photo's to compare of their stock 1200 sedan engine brackets I would love if you could post them up for me so I can figure out whats wrong, or even some photo's of the motor in the bay, In case the motor is in the right position.

Here are some photo's of what I am talking about.

General engine bay pic



In this pic you can see the motor is around 4 inches from the firewall, this does not seem right to me.



In this pic you can see that I have the gearbox end jacked up as far as I can get it before the extractors hit the floorpan.




This photo is taken from directly above the shifter hole, I still need to grind the bottom half of the hole to make it round but the shifter seems too far forward.



My best bet is the motor is meant to come back about 30-40mm in the bay to be standard, I also have only a broken gearbox mount so I could not check where that sits.

Thanks in advance for any help given, this is really starting to annoy me.

I did 280zx one myself, too bad 3 years later I have driven the car like 5 km :(.

A dude on ozdat has been trying to offload one of these for over a year, something like $20,000

haha, qld has been sunny for weeks, not even more then 1 cloud a day :D.

looking good, that garage is nearly as messy as mine, hows the motor fit?