Well I did want the polished alloy look, but will have a geeze around, the one I had did foul on the V as datsandy said, but even with the v trimmed which i dont wish to do, it would probably be too close to the bonnet skin anyway.

I'll just sell the radiator to someone who cam use it i.e. silvia owners and buy another one, quite simple really.

if your using 38 mm pipe just cut a slot down length wise and weld it back up with the smaller diameter. The pipe should have an internal diameter of something similar to 35-36mm, unless you were talking inside diameter.

To reduce the outside diameter of - 38.1mm pipe to 34mm outside you would cut a 13mm slot.
- 38.1mm to 36mm outside you would cut a 6mm slot.

Work out the outside diameter of pipe you need, and measure the outside diameter of the pipe you have.

then you can use this formula to work out how much you have to cut out.

(3.146 x outside diameter of current pipe) - (3.146 x outside diameter of ideal pipe)

When its hot after welding the seam back up, then you can beat the egg shape out of it. Leaving the end egg shaped to match the inlet port.

I got mine through accurate suspension but if you can live with a longer spring there is an awesome site to get them cheap from.

http://www.otomoto.com.au/HDSystems/sleevekits.htm

$300 with springs and a spanner is an awesome price, Usually looking to pay $250 for sleeves and seats and another $250 for the springs. For the front of a street 1200 a 4kg spring is awesome.

that's a different radiator, i drilled holes in the bottom support to fit it flush to the bottom, the top pins were on the side on mine and no where near the higher points, I would save 2 mm by trimming the bottom lugs off the radiator, but did not want to cut it, as the radiator still would not let the bonnet close, That's discounting the extra room for the radiator cap probably only making that 0mm saving. Without cutting a slot in the bottom bar to fit the radiator down into it there is no possible way I can make it fit. Strangely enough in the emails back and forth with laney he said that his bonnet closed, and he had mounted his a bit more forward by cutting away the ridge that the standard radiator sits on. The bottom bar was intact in the pictures he sent me. The radiator is definitely almost as high as the bonnet would sit closed.

And that photo, the radiator is earthed, isn't that really bad for alloy radiators?.

cheers

So I bought a radiator off laney on here who claimed it fitted the 1200 engine bay well, farks me what type of radiator it was but it came in no way even close to fitting height wise. I was led to believe it was a sr20 radiator from the add. It sits about 43mm higher at the neck then the radiator support panel, also sits about 30mm higher at the water outlets, the bonnet doesn't even come close to closing with it mounted against the steel. It also did not come with the water temp sensor as per add.

http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=44504&forum=2&post_id=305060#forumpost305060

So if sr20 radiators don't fit what does?. Or can someone recommend a silvia one that does fit?. I'd rather ask before getting burnt again.

iDatto - its not really an issue for a street car, I didnt really didnt feel like forking out an extra $400 to have the shaft shortened, I bought the shortest stroke shaft they make for the struts but need one thats about 120mm out the top of the shock unit to be captive, Rarely if ever will it come uncaptive on the street, alot of modified cars drive around like this all the time without ever having issues. Most people can run the rims beside the springs, I had no option of doing this if I wished to have 195's on 6.5 inch rims actually fit under the guard, so the spring seat has to be above the wheel on the strut tube, meaning I had no option of shortening the strut. The springs only sit about 125mm high when captive and loaded. Also the top hat slips over the strut now as I lubed it so the spring does not not become uncaptive very often anymore the shock just hangs a little from the camber tops.

Anyways forgot to update here on Wednesday.

Got the motor sitting where I wanted it to be now. Sits alot lower in the engine bay, You can see on the turbo side of things there isnt much room. Inlet side clears booster quite well, and will be even better when I remove all the garbage from the manifold.

Generally alot cleaner in there now.

Hoping to have mounted radiator and cooler tomorrow aswell as cleaning up the crossmember and painting.

Reset leafs, 280zx struts converted to coilovers with 225 pound springs, plus kyb gt's all round, and yeah the camber/castor tops in the front. Will be doing some chasis bracing once motor is in properly, also going to do swaybars and strutbrace.

little more progress today, got the guards rolled, first test fit of the motor seems alrightish, needs to drop down about 30-40 mm, also needs to come forward a little.

BTW this first post is a huge cut and paste.

Basics.
1971 Datsun 1200 4 door sedan.
Body has been stripped, soda blasted, rust cut out and new panels welded in their place, painted in toyota 3t3 paint, whatever the hell that is, metallic red camry paint imo. I bought it like this. The previous owner also had a crazy idea that retrimming the stock seats with some stupey patterned crap from late model pulsars would be a great idea, so the interior looks nice, but #OOPS# at the same time. Also has a dumb subwoofer mounted in the rear parcel tray which makes me cry when i see it. I hate this and will remove it at one point. Since I got it I have changed the wheels to 15x6.5 watanabe's, also put 280zx struts in with slotted rotor's and coilovers. Rear leafs have been reset, camber/castor tops in the front aswell.

Parts i have grabbed from around the joint are.
- ca18det, in bits, currently putting it together, going to clean up the head a little bit and remove the #OOPS# butterfly things from the intake manifold. Have a gt2860rs turbo and stainless low mount manifold to go on with this. have stock loom and ecu aswell, and 2 manual boxes.
- R31 28 spline bw lsd, needs to be shortened and leaf mounts welded on etc.

Plans are for a fun street car, could even end up as a daily, going to get it engineered with motor as stock as possible.

Pics from when I got the car.












Pics with the front suspension done and new wheels on.

Suspension and brakes installed before the bolt on spacers.


In the garage and completely dusty.


Other shots.























Pics of it on monday with the rear suspension done.
























Sorry 56k.

Anyway hacked it up a bit yesterday for the ca18 swap.







:)