was more than stoked to when i took windows out , No R*** word ( ill say it quietly )

A few people have asked where does stick sit with conversion. Well heres where tunnel panel sits and handbrake hasnt been moved yet.

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and some more....

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Well after a lot procrastination ive finally made some more head way on the 120y. Seems that in two weeks blocks every three months somethings gets done!

Started stripping car completely- decided that with all new everything going on the car i might as well go all the way back to bare metal everywhere, suppose i always wanted but thought it'd be something that "got done later".

- Picked up two mint bumpers front and rear
- Engine fitting kit is waiting
- front strut brake combo........ bit worried to move forward- maybe more measuring and checking....(headaches)

-got two wheels set up today with the 175/50/13's - fronts are legal but rear is a little to much stretchy stretchy !!
- Thinking about ways a can retro the dash... Similar to New gen camaro, gt40, mini and mustangs have been done. let cha know how that goes.

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Well alots come back - got my loom back , crossmember and fitting kit finished, bought a sandblaster and mig welder!

Ill get in the shed tomorrow and take some pics... still have to
finish other inner guard then i can start putting everything back in the engine bay.

Brakes are coming along just waiting on machining then ill sandblast and re paint em.

Scrutineers will check for basic things along with some other stuff. Make sure you have a secure battery
tape or film over headlight glass
1kg extinguisher ABE type (best ones from Autosport) cams approved with 3 hold points and 3g clamp- has to be within reach while belt is on
some check excess slop in reclining of seat
oil leaks
secondry bonnet catch
battery and tow point decals
catch can for rad overflow liquid
need a oil catch can tank- cant remember what the ruling is? Think its 1 lt up to 2ltr engines and 2ltr above 2lt minimum- you can check online cams manual....

In fact have a look here..

http://www.camsmanual.com.au/10_gen_req.asp

Schedule A + B are the basics, The rules sometimes read scary but are generally common sense.

Have fun mine will be out next year!

here tis'

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No pad overhang on mine dba say 1 or 2mm is acceptable. I originally tried the s12w caliper and it doesn't allow enough room for mods to fit rotor hat in. Also pads are to big and have about 5mm overhang .even if you grind pad bottom down top clearance happens due to pins to hold pads in.
I've taken heaps of pics so I can share the info next week if it's wanted.

Pretty sure won't have to grind bottom pad.

Oh and a need a right side s12+8 :)

I can confirm the u12 rotor is best. 1200 rallycar intially put me onto them with your help re s12+8s

spoke to dba ( I own a auto store) regarding my conversion and he confirms also that u12 is the best option. It fits best in all dimensions other that hat size. You will have to mark and grind some meat off the larger piston bottom area. The hub outer is a good guide to how much because the rotor hub is the same circumference. I've got pics my phone but can't upload them for some reason? I'm having my rotors machined early next week so can post rest of progress then if you like

sorry cant get pics to upload?

ok so this looks wrong.

s12w calipers dont seem to fit rotor correctly. This is dummied up but still cant see it getting any better. Shaved a little off the bottom of the caliper so rotor is centered on stub but touches in a couple of areas.... rotor hub touches brake pad backing plate and brake pads extend past rotor. Cant see hoe s12w is a correct option. Must be the s12+8 caliper only.

I have found alot of good info for 280zx struts but im unsure whether they are the same stub axle size and whether the ears for the brake bolt up is the same distance away from the stub compared to stanza ones? anyone know? If they are i could keep the s12w's and use a 300zx vented rotor with a alloy spacer.