Nice video, thank you for taking the time to put it together.
It's kind of cool to see your own car amongst someone elses picture set.

Here are some more pics from today.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.644285048966421.1073741864.471746026220325&type=1

Ash.

Top cap was warped and couldn't get a proper seal, fuel pump was leaking.

Replaced the carb and fuel pump for new ones.

Car now runs fine.

Thank you all for taking the time to offer all your suggestions.

Ash.

The fuel should be half way up the glass window, running your fuel bowl dry is not normal, your carburetor is using more fuel than it is receiving.

so... your carb is either not allowing fuel in or... a sufficient volume of fuel is not making it to the carb.

I recently had the exact same symptoms.

I replaced the carburetor as my top cover was warped and could not seal even with a new gasket kit.
Just doing the carburetor did not solve all my symptoms as i had alot wrong (many vacuum leaks).

Today I replaced my fuel pump and my car now runs fine.

Check your fuel pump from underneath, if it is excessively oily then i would consider changing it for a new one.

Before spending money on replacing the fuel pump, first run a new hose to the inlet of the carburetor and see if you can blow through the hose while your fuel bowl is empty.

If you can not blow air with the bowl empty (float down/needle open) then replace the needle and mini filter in the inlet, then reset your float so fuel is half way up the glass window on your carburetor.

Ash.

Went down to the parts store today.
checked the book from behind the counter.

The gasket kit i bought suits my carb model.
DCG306.

Recarb brand rebuild kit, HT05L which replaces HT-412L or written in pen GC005

Ordered a second kit to try another gasket.

I everything is clean, so i have no idea why it would leak fuel when i press the accelerator pump.

Adjusted float and needle was changed to the new one in the kit. (also tried with my old one)

Replaced the PCV valve, now have new crank case hose and rocker cover to air cleaner hoses ordered from Nissan, $111 later for two hoses.

New exhaust/intake manifold gasket.

tried with the old PCV hoses connected and clamped, tried with the PCV valve covered by a rubber vacuum cap to see if anything is leaking there.

New vacuum hose to the distributor.

I have cleaned and air guned every single part, plus the new throttle chamber comes with new idle screw and was genuine Hitachi new in packet.

and still my car randomly stalls at when stopping at intersections. AArgh!

Time for an update.

I recieved my new throttle chamber yesterday and assembled my carb.
http://www.datsun1000.com/UserImages/beetwenty/Large/Hitachi%20DCG306.jpg

Fixed up a second hand manifold by replacing the worn heat riser flap shaft with an ejector pin from an injection moulding tool.
http://www.datsun1000.com/UserImages/beetwenty/Large/08%20Complete.jpg

and put everything together again.
http://www.datsun1000.com/UserImages/beetwenty/Large/A12.jpg

My carb is now leaking from the top gasket near my accelerator pump.
Should i be using a gasket sealant of some kind?

PM sent regarding Colortune.

T3T035-83-4X04
22100-G2770

Time for an update on My Vacuum advance.

I received my part today, and have compared the two parts.















The Diaphragm diameter, travel of actuating rod and spring rate matches between these two units.
...But the length of the L16 actuating rod is 2.5mm longer than the A12 actuating rod.

The L16 Vacuum Advance Assembly Bolts up to the A12 Distributor. Horay!

I am guessing the longer Actuating rod will result in a difference of about 5 Deg to my inital advance from where I previously had it set.

I doubt this will limit the mechanical advance from finishing it's travel, but am not 100% sure.

If it interferes, then I will see about a 2.5mm spacer between the Distributor and Vacuum advance Assembly, and elongate the two mounting holes another 2.5mm.

I am still waiting on a new throttle chamber for my Hitachi Carb, so will not be able to test the distributor for atleast another week or so.

(I compared spring rates by clamping the units together and squeezing them through their travel, both bottomed out at the same time.)

Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions lately ddgonzal.
You are a big help to many Datsun owners.

Cheers, Ash.

After checking my A12 for vacuum leaks I have discovered that my Vacuum Advance Assembly has a leak on my Mitsubishi Distributor.

Below is a photo of my broken unit.
http://www.datsun1000.com/UserImages/beetwenty/Large/IMG_0132.JPG

My question is does anyone know if the same part is interchangable with the L18 unit?
Other than fitment my concerns are weather it has the correct rate of movement and total distance of movement?

Here is a link to one on ebay for reference.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SINGLE-VACUUM-ADVANCE-UNIT-NISSAN-DATSUN-180B-L18-EARLY-1-8L-BRAND-NEW-/221233563908