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Re: 45mm coil over conversion and insert choice |
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Just can't stay away 
Joined: 2010/1/13 3:20
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Tuff-110, whats the specs on the gold inserts? can you get them in OZ? Are they shorter?
Kiri1, so you cut the full 100mm off and it's too much, I'm thinking 50mm is a good amount. I'd like to limit bottoming out and trying to keep the spring captive
Benny, how much did the KYB's end up costing shipped and how long was the wait? Who was it through?
Thanks again
Posted on: 2010/7/29 11:24
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Re: 45mm coil over conversion and insert choice |
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Just can't stay away 
Joined: 2010/1/13 3:20
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estyre, that sounds like the way to go with re welding the old threaded strut tube top lower down. Was there any rough bits on the inside of the tube on the weld area that needed smoothing?
The question is now how much is a good amount to take off the strut height so I don't have problems with being too low with the coil overs full height? If I go the Golf inserts I'm thinking 50mm off the strut and run about a 50mm spacer inside
Thanks for the advice
Posted on: 2010/7/29 11:15
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45mm coil over conversion and insert choice |
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Just can't stay away 
Joined: 2010/1/13 3:20
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Registered Users
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G'day, I'm half way through a 45mm coil over conversion to my 120Y struts.
I got a set of larger stub axle 120Y struts, a otomoto 45mm coil over kit, Kev Rowley S13 brake caliper brackets and S13 brakes ready to go once I machine the hub down to slide the S13 brakes over.
My problem is now working out what strut insert will be best.
I've read the Mk1 Golf insert will fit, I went to Heasmans and they didn't have the Mk1 Golf inserts in stock but they had Porsche 944 ones which are the same 1.5inch (38.1mm) diameter.
They didn't really come close to fitting in, they said they would have to machine down the body of the insert and maybe get the strut honed out.
Then i'd need to cut the strut down 100mm and get the end of the strut tube re-threaded, either on the inside or the outside of the tube.
But anyway a good insert in 38.1mm isn't easy to come by in Australia, and I'm not real sure how much I should shorten the strut by for good ride height, 100mm seems a bit much.
Has anyone gone through this process in Australia, and what inserts did you use?
I've searched on here but the information isn't in as much detail as I'd like.
I've gone so far now with the 45mm struts i don't want to ditch the idea for 50.8mm ones, then my Kev Rowley brake upgrade won't work.
Also has anyone used series 1-2 Rx-7 inserts? They seem to be the same 38.1mm body but are a bit longer than the Golf's at around 352mm which sounds ideal. Plus I could get a KYB or Pedders pretty easy.
Not sure is Bilstien or Koni are worth it for a 95% street driven 1200 coupe with a L18 in it, or with the heavier motor should I spend the extra and order some Bilstien Golf inserts from the states?
Any advice would be awesome, cheers
Posted on: 2010/7/29 3:16
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WANTED 1200 / 120Y AUTO TRANS TUNNEL |
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Just can't stay away 
Joined: 2010/1/13 3:20
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Starting a L series and stumpy box conversion soon and would ideally like to find a 1200 or 120Y auto trans tunnel for the conversion to go in my manual coupe.
I'm located in Sydney
Cheers
Posted on: 2010/7/26 13:29
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Re: f/S semi slicks MELB |
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Just can't stay away 
Joined: 2010/1/13 3:20
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hi mate, how much for each of the 14inch tyre sets?
cheer
Posted on: 2010/7/15 12:08
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Re: HELP! SR20de vvt or CA18det or 12A extend port with a weber? |
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Just can't stay away 
Joined: 2010/1/13 3:20
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Is your 12A bp making it's power all in the high revs?
Have you driven other 1200's with four cylinders to compare?
Posted on: 2010/5/17 13:16
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Re: HELP! SR20de vvt or CA18det or 12A extend port with a weber? |
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Just can't stay away 
Joined: 2010/1/13 3:20
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your right, I've got the advice which I greatly appreciate, time to make a decision 
Posted on: 2010/5/17 6:43
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Re: HELP! SR20de vvt or CA18det or 12A extend port with a weber? |
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Just can't stay away 
Joined: 2010/1/13 3:20
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Registered Users
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cool, thanks for the replies.
I've been offered a 12A extend port and crossmember package, these can make up to 170 odd rwhp. That's got to be fun, any one with experience with a rotary non turbo swap? I want it legal so 12A extend port is the max I would go.
I see Ange on here has a 12A bp which has ran a 13.7 quarter with 150rwhp?
The 12A might be a bit kinder on the BW 120Y diff than a SR20de
Posted on: 2010/5/17 5:22
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Re: Recommendation for engineer in sydney/nsw??? |
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Just can't stay away 
Joined: 2010/1/13 3:20
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Look up John Wilson of AKZ engineering, he is based in ACT but comes to Syndey on Fridays to engineer cars for Greg at Autosport engineering in Kirrawee.
John has engineered two cars for me, 12Aep EFI R100 and a 12AT Rx-2, his a good bloke and easy to deal with.
I'll be getting my 1200 coupe engineered by him once I make up my mind whether I go CA18det, SR20de vvt, 12Aep or L18.
Weren't you going 12A, then CA18det and now you have gone SR20de? You sound similar to me, what sold you on the SR20de?
cheers
Posted on: 2010/5/15 11:59
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Re: HELP! SR20de vvt or CA18det or 12A extend port with a weber? |
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Just can't stay away 
Joined: 2010/1/13 3:20
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Thanks again for all the advice
I had a series 1 Rx-7 last year that weighed 980kg, and was dyno'd at 174rwhp with a extended bridge 13B. I really wasn't impressed with it at all, no torque and didn't feel that quick at all.
My Rx-2 I just sold had 180rwhp, 12AT and weighed 1100kg with a 9inch, again didn't fell that quick and I didn't like the boost curve even though it had a small turbo
I'm a fussy bastard thats for sure!
But, the things that I mostly didn't like about those cars was the complete package, they both handled poorly and drove like pigs
I guess I want the complete package, good acceleration, good handling and good braking + nice and fun to drive, also simple to work on / maintain.
Not too much to ask? haha
The L series is looking pretty good
Posted on: 2010/5/14 1:28
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