Have you already done the easy and free options like removing the spare tyre, tool kit, jack, passenger seats, factory seat belts, trim panels, roof lining etc?

What about cheap options like removing all sound deadening, cutting out all unused brackets, swiss cheesing the remaining brackets, cutting the excess length off all bolts and screws, removing the dash and using a a small alloy panel for the gauges and warning lights, cutting out the spare wheel well and covering the hole with an alloy panel, fitting lexan side and rear windows?

Quote:

This is a really good point. I constantly sees guys at the track who are 15-30kg overweight yet have gone to the trouble of fitting lightweight alloy wheel nuts, carbon panels, lightweight fuel cells etc.

I much prefer the feel and grip of a suede wheel. I'd rather change it more often than go back to leather.

I've got one of these in my 1200.

http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/ ... 60635004&PSV=Primary&CDO=

I've got a cheapie like this in my 1000. There is stuff all difference between this one and the $270 one in the 1200.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/345mm-13-6 ... ories&hash=item336cca30c5

Matty

Try the Panel House at Slacks Creek mate.

http://www.panelhouse.com.au/

My last new one from them was around $100-120 from memory.

The LS series of V8's get my vote.

I am constantly amazed by how much power they can make reliably with relatively light mods.

I got my last one brand new from an engineering shop for $120. They're not worth kitting when you can get them new for that sort of money.
Matty

Any decent auto shop will have these on the shelf or be able to order them in quickly.

Quote:

Agreed. Grant is great to deal with.

Mine were OK at 163rwkw. That was with the factory regulator and a Bosch 040 pump. They didn't have much head room left so I upgraded to R32 GTR injectors a couple of years ago.